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Tyres
Hi, I am riding the Huski 50 and Dirtworks 100 and was wondering about tyre choice. I am running Kenda nevegal 2.35s at the moment but thinking about 1.95s or 2.0s. Would i notice the difference? eg. rolling weight and grip. i will be using tubes. Does tyre size affect the chance of pinch flats? Is there anything i should look for in particular when making a choice for an enduro tyre?
Thanks
Trev
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There's at least 20km (or more?) of pretty rough and rocky stuff on the Dirtworks 100 course. While skinny tyres will see you right for the rest of it (especially the last 30km which is some road and smooth firetrail) I'd be careful of going too skinny and light due to these rough sections.
What you want on these events is reliability and for that you can't go past a tubeless setup (even ghetto tubeless) with proper tubeless tyres. I'd usually use something form the Maxxis LUST range. Crossmark/Larsen or more recently have been put on to Monorail/Larsen (front/rear) combo with great results.
To Kenda Nevagal up front and small block eight rear and both tubeless . I am doing the Husky enduro to so bit the bullet . Have ridden Stromlo for about 22 ks and a hot lap of Wagga MTB park , both pretty techy ,and the difference is mind blowing , because of lower presssure there is bags of grip and seems to roll over rocky terrain easier and much more confidence in regards to pinch flats
If you get yourself to Clarence St Cyclery they have a Bontrager rim strip and valve set that is much cheaper tubeless conversion than the Stans Notubes kit, and works really well. Never thought I'd say both those things in one sentence about anything bought from Clarence St, but I'm using it on my hack trail wheelset, and I was amazed at how easily the tubeless tyres were to mount and air up. Been running it for a few months and have been impressed so far.
Traction and confidence is so much better than tubed tyres, and the risk of pinch flats is eliminated.
You can still burp the tyre off the rim, but generally this only occurs if you let the pressures get too low (<25psi) and you're using non-tubeless tyres. Proper UST rubber run at reasonable pressure (30psi) is super reliable. Run some sealant solution and you have most eventualities covered. I still carry a spare Presta tube or two depending on the length of the ride and recommend you do the same.
As far as actual rubber goes, I've been running Maxxis Ignitors on the front and have been happy, but Rob notes that they give awesome grip until they don't, and they don't give you much warning. I have to say I agree. Haven't tried the Monorails yet, but on Rob's recommendation I'll be giving them a try next time I buy tyres.
Larsens or Crossmarks on the rear if dry. Ignitors both ends if damp. The larsen is a big bag tyre, I'd run a 2.0 on the rear with a 2.35 front.
I somehow did pinch flat a Crossmark LUST tyre the other week. Put a hole in the sidewall right next to the bead.
That said I think it is quite rare
As soon as I used that word "eliminated" someone would come up with an exception.
It all depends on what trails and riding style you have...
2.35 single ply tyres are great for loose, technical or uneven terrain, as they provide a wider tyre footprint with which to gain grip on the trail. If these 2.35 tyres have large knobs on them, the likelihood of a pinch flat may be marginally reduced compared to smaller or smoother tread tyres. I don't believe the tyre carcass or sidewall is any thicker. If you are concerned about rolling resistance, you can always go 2.35 front, for great cornering grip and confidence, and use 2.0/2.1 rear for excellent rolling efficiency. This is a common solution.
If you are not doing excessive technical/rocky trails, always go tubeless. Preferably on a tubeless rim and tyres. But non-tubeless rims can still be converted over and work effectively. But take a spare tube for sidewall blowouts!!
My XC bike runs tubeless Mavic rims on nobbly Nevegal 2.0 front and smoother Crossmark 2.1 LUST rear. A nice do-it-all solution to most of Sydney's trails, without the need to endlessly change tyres over to match trail surfaces. If I was only to race, I would probably have Crossmarks all round.
Happy trails!!
Don't forget, depending on what pressure you run (tube or tubeless) can also be a factor in whether you pinch flat or not...
Then you need to consider rider weight, riding style, terrain etc.
Hey Trev.
I've ridden a hell of a lot of tyres, mostly in race / enduro scenarios.
There is one tyre that stands out a country mile in terms of weight, rolling resistance and grip.
The Schwable Racing Ralph.
I've used them on a 26" bike, in both Tubeless, and 'evo' format, and now have them on my 29er - as a do it all tyre.
Also worth considering (for those races at least) is a WTB Velociraptor on the back (damn fast tyre) and Kenda Small Block 8 on the front - light and tracks well.
Dirtworks is only slightly rough for 10km max, and then only if you stray from the 'line' - you'd be really unlucky to shred anything.
Husky - I've ridden the area a lot, and its much less rocky than Dirtworks. Safer in terms of tyre choice.
People do talk a lot about Crossmarks, Larsens - Maxxis in general. I've seen more problems with those than any other - that may be coz everyone runs them, so not sure of percentage failures.
Its worth remembering that Maxxis are cheap and easy to get hold of. I put this down as the reason for their popularity.
Anyway, this link answers all questions (or actually seems to prompt more!)
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pi2kAyeNa...
It comes from this thread. One of the best ever....
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pi2kAyeNa...
Yeah... Maxxis have been known for that de-lamination issue (bubbles in the tyre) allegedly caused by one of the chemicals in sealant. As you say, loads of people use them so perhaps it is a percentages thing.
Schwable tyres are light but expensive. One of the guys had a rather new looking one rip at the bead at the Scott though. For the $$$ you'd expect more.
Dunno about putting a Small Block 8 on the front, or a Larsen for that matter, although they are better on the rear. That's because for the front, IMHO you want something with a shallow tread on the centre for low rolling resistance but decent blocks at the side for cornering grip. Sure, for DH braking grip comes into it, but we're talking about XC racing here where that shouldn't really be a factor.
A Nevegal is great on the front as Ditty says but they have a higher rolling resistance.
I've always just mainly used Maxxis Crossmarks LUST running tubeless and next had any issues. I have only ever had one flat with these but the sealant (stans) sealed it straight away so I just topped up the air. The sealant works that good that recently I thought I should just check it as occasionally it can dry up in a ball, when I removed my tyres I found I piece of metal had actually gone through my tyre and was still inside.
In saying all this I heave recently taken delivery of a Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Rocket Ron both 2.25 UST which I will be fitting this weekend
Thought I would have a go at trying something different.
I went through a set of crossmarks ( folding/tubes ) in no time, the sidewalls wore and blew out. Switched to monorails and they lasted ages ( like 10x ) but recently failed in the same way, not really tried anything else other than kenda nevergals and did not like those because they are noisy and don't roll that well, they also feel like they have too much grip ( I like a tyre that slides a bit ).
Did the Dirtworks 100 on monorails ( i think it was F/R but may have had a Crossmark on the back ) and tubes, no flats but had them up like 40+PSI, bouncing around like crazy!
For my riding style I rekon the monorails are perfect and will stick with them, although I pinch flat way too much when I don't run high PSI so I'll soon be looking at tubeless options.
For the info. Tubeless is definately on the cards down the track. [Mavic 819 and hope pro 2 eh Rob
] In the couple of months i have been riding i have only had two flats, both rear both caused by a stick or something knocking the top off the presta valve. Has any one else had this problem? and would drilling my rim to suit a schrader valve cause much weakness? I have Mavic 321 rims at the moment.
Thanks
Trev
Never had that problem, and have interestingly never heard of anyone having such a problem.
If it was me, I would not be drilling anything in a rim. Keep it as is, and buy something that fits what you need.
Stay with Presta.
Trev, I am still running with tubes and have crossmarks on the back and front. When the centre tread on the rear wears down I rotate it to the front which still gives plenty of grip on the oustide with a good bead up the middle and throw a new one on the rear. I have run this setup for about two years now and have done Dirtworks twice and plenty of adventure races on rougher tracks. I run about 30-35psi and have only ever had one puncture running this setup. The one time it failed I reckon the pressure was about 25psi and I broke my pump before I got it up where it needed to be (
). This is no good in the wet as I found out with a sideways dismount into lantana
I'm running the same setup as cambo and until recently I've quite happy. However, I've recently been having issues with the front on sandy corners, the crossmark is frequently washing out and not inspiring confidence. Any suggestions?
I've never been a fan of Crossmarks on the front. To me there is not enough cornering grip. I keep my Crossmark to the rear and I have put on a Maxxis Advantage up front (2.1 size). Works a treat.