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UST compatible rims - how to?


staffe's picture

By staffe - Posted on 30 July 2011

Some advise needed.

Invested in a pair of UST compatible wheels and are pondering on the following:
1) Should I use that liquid sealant in them any way?
2) If I do get a flat is is just a matter of removing the fixed valve and chucking in a tube?
3) There is a warning label stating not to use tools to get the tyres on and off. Hmm, if I cant use tyre levers to get the tyre off - then how can I?
4) I normally ride on cross marks but they are on the heavy side. What's light with low rolling restistance and offer OK cornering grip?

Hopefully some of you have figured this out and have some experience to share.

cheers!

Gepro's picture

I'm no expert but I can put my 5c worth in from my experience...

1/ Use sealant 'coz if u do get a puncture, the sealant will do its job and seal the hole (as long as it's not too big).

2/If the hole will not seal, u must clean out the goo before putting your tube in and yes u must take out the ust valve to allow the tube's valve to go thru.

3/ I do use tyre levers (to get the tyres on and off) but try to be as gentle as poss with the rims...**I also stretch the new tyre a bit before sticking it in by putting my foot on one end and pulling up with my arms the opposite way just to stretch the tyre a tad. Stretching it also helps to warm the rubber up before mounting it to the rim.

4/ I really like kenda nevegals or small block 8's. Of course, Maxxis Ignitors (front) are a favs for Perth conditions as well as Larsen TT's (back)....also Ardents are good....all have pretty good weights and low rolling resistance.

** Remember to use a higher pressure pump to first inflate the ust tyre...such as a floor pump or servo pump. If using a floor pump your first 10 efforts to inflate the tyre must be strong and quick to force air into the tyre and get it sealing. I spray a water/detergent mix on the outside rim/tyre interface as I'm pumping or get a mate to help with that while you're pumping away. This helps to seal and bed the tyre to the rim. Over-inflate the tyre first up to around 50psi to seal and bed the tyre to the rim....you'll hear the tyre popping as you pump...this is good...you will see bubbles too - use the spray to help seal bubbly bits. When you're done, leave tyre for 1hr to see if it's sealing and not de-flating. I'm sure you'll have no problems.

Good luck....you won't look back going tubeless!!!

HeezaGeeza's picture

1) Yes, it will help seal a small puncture. Stans or homewbrew depending skills
2) Yep
3) Use wide, plastic levers and you should be OK
4) Ignitors might be your next best thing, but I'm not sure how much lighter they are. Tyres really are a personal thing, have a look on some forums (MTBR.com's reviews section is useful) look at manufacturers sites for weights and they visit a shop or two.

Fatboy's picture

1) Absolutely!
2) Yes
3) Rims don't like tyre levers so best to use your hands. Having said that, I've got the strength in my hands of a 5yo girl and have never had success without levers. If you must use them as someone else said, flatter the better. Look out for yellow very wide and flat ones available in a lot of shops. Sorry can't recall the brand.
4) I'll spend plenty of cash saving weight on my bike but never on the tyres. When I first went tubeless about 5yrs ago I had light weight tyres and used to get holes through them regularly and would often finish rides with little shiny bits in the tyre where the sealant had done its thing. It was Gordo who got me on to Small Block 8's which are one of the heavier tyres out there but look how many guys at the front of the enduro's use them! I've been on them for a couple of years and have never seen a shiny spot from my sealant. As a result I have gone from carrying 2 spare tubes and about 4 gas canisters when I race down to 1 tube and 1 canister and I've never had to use them.

badchef's picture

if you have trouble getting ur tyres on put em in the sun, cook for approx 20min then flip n do the same the other side, they will be more flexible and go on piece of piss without levers, same thing to swap em out, i use plastic levers, no probs.i also find that maxxis ust tyres are by far the easiest to get on and off, and bead the quickest too.crossmarks too heavy???wtf?? good luck trying finding a better tyre as light and grips and rolls as good, enjoy no more pinchies matey

hawkeye's picture

1) Yes. Stan's is good, although there are other good brands out there these days.
2) Yes.
3) The wide flat bright yellow plastic levers are excellent, and are made by Michelin.
4) Racing Ralphs are lighter than Maxxis and much lighter than Kendas for UST tyres. Wouldn't use the non-UST, they're a bit fragile in the sidewall for rocky Syndey riding.

UST is the bomb. Good call on going tubeless: better traction, no more pinchflats, lighter (sometimes) and more puncture resistant.

Commendale's picture

1. Yes, Stan is the man alright. There are cheaper alternatives which work as well, from my limited experience.
2. Yes but I would check if the spare tube's Presta valve fits into the hole first. Had experienced this problem not long ago. Rolled over a rose kind of thorn, yanked out one side of the tube from the rim and tried to fit the spare tube in. The valve won't go into my Mavic 819. Walked back to the car....
3. Plastic levers are the go. Don't think there's anything a plastic lever can do to a rim Stan's can't seal.
4. Personally, I would sacrifice some extra grams to get a stronger sidewall like Crossmark LUST. The sidewall of the Racing Ralph UST on my other bike sometimes looks like a stretched balloon ready to pop at the first sharp rock.

staffe's picture

Many thanks for all the good and consistent advise.

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