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Disc brakes...lil help please!
Here I am again asking for help..with my brakes.
Avid Juicy 5's Hydros.
Problem : One pad not returning completely, still grabbing rotor and squeals at very slow speeds
Have read the Avid manual and tried to remove pads completely.
Any tips on how to get these pads out?
looking forward to getting this fixed before dirtworks!
thanks guys
shano
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Shane don't waste anymore of your valuable time on these mate, between us all on the site that have them I reckon we have wasted enough time.
The pads should come out easy, I flipped my bike, took out the wheel and just used a pair of pliers to grab the little protruding tab and pulled them out away from the caliper. Pull them towards the centre as you pull them up, the centre of the piston has a little nipple that sticks out further and actually locates into the back of the pad.
As for the piston sticking well two guys at the same LBS gave me different stories, one says its not a problem, the other sayd they are fixing it all the time, obviously not infront of each other though. I have been told that when you pull out the pads to also make sure there is no dirt around the pistons, apparently they are known for getting grit stuck between the piston and the body. Carefully brush them clean and someone else here has suggested then spraying them with a little teflon to help them slide.
I had to bleed fluid out of the system to get the new pads in, as have several other people here, but this should not be necessary.
Save your hair and get something a little more reliable when they are next on sale
Stuart
are out now...it seems that the spreader wasn't holding onto the bottom corner of the pad due to the wear and the fact that its warped a little.
Time to put in some new pads. Fingies crossed.
...Juicy 7's? Are they any better?
I'm on a set of 5's at the moment, and haven't really had much problem with them. I had found that the pads sometimes came together after not being used for a little while, but thats about it.
I for one am tired of being scared (sort of) of touching these new fan dangled things.
I am going to buy a bleed kit and start fiddling. (on my old bike)
Really, how hard can it be? (Jeff?)
Will share my wealth of knowledge soon.
In the mean while we must have within our group at least one member who has played with hydo brakes before! (And won)
Please come foreward and share!
Greg
I'm sure we've had this before, but it's easy. Check the Parktool site: Hayes Hydraulic Brake Service.
I got 50cm of clear tubing from local H/W shop for free, and large syringe ditto. Found that an empty & slightly shaved pen refill fits nice into the hole on the leaver (although after a few times, the seal isn't so great so can't say I'd recommend this) and used an old take out container to catch the old fluid. Or spend $30-40 on a bleed kit.
Job done.
I've been playing about with my brakes for ages (Deores, XT's, LX's) they're pretty straightforward, I just grabbed instructions off the net and fired in. The main thing to be careful with is not getting air gaps when you're feeding in the fluid so keep an eye on the reservoir.
Clearly I've never tried it with Hayes but it can't be that much harder surely?
Take the pads out. Pump the pistons out a bit. Spray sides of piston with a little silicon spray. work piston in and out a bit. Wipe off excess. put pads back in. Should be OK.
I've heard some of the juices have this problem and it seems to stem from the o-rings drying out and sticking a bit.
Personally I've got 7s on one bike and Ultimate of the other and I haven't had a problem. I rate them as the best breaks I've had.
greg, Most brakes are easy to bleed. With a bit of know how and the right gear.
Rob, be very careful with that syringe. If there is a blockage or airlock in the line it is very easy to squeeze too hard and pop the seals. The pen nib works for older style hayes but not so well on the newer ones.
For anyone interested I came across these last night at a site I have never seen before. That comes to $375A a pair plus delivery from the states. Don't know if they are assembled or prebled, have sent an e-mail asking and hopefully will have an answer tomorrow. Bloody cheap either way.
http://www.sagecycles.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc...
Just got an answer, yes they are prebled. That looks too good to pass up.
I saw a set of Shimano LX hydros there a few weeks ago for $250ish AUD including shipping....only thing missing were pads, they shouldnt be more than $30 AUD...cheaper if you get them through Jensen i guess.
Well, T7 have Shimano XTs at $209 an end, Juicy 7s for $214 an end. AUD, $10 shipping:
Top Sellers in Brake (Disc/ V)
Thanks guys now I have to decide whether I'll get to eat for the next week or upgrade my brakes.
So long as you have a case of beer in the fridge then the option is clear.
I"ve looked and I can't seem to find current year model shimano brakes with 6 bolt fixing. I was looking for the Deore's. Matt is most happy with his and so is Harry but as I said everything I've seen has centre lock only.
Stuart
6 bolt discs are an option on the T7 site right now. Maybe they are old?
Mind you, a disc is a disc, surely a Shimano calliper will grab a Hayes (or any other) disc, 6 bolt or not?
Clearly I wasn't scrolling down the page far enough.
I’ve got Hayes on the downhill and Juicy 5's on the Reign.
I was talking to a tech at Sic Cycles today that said, after I described my saggy lever problem, that it could be the piston seal in the lever as they only have a 12-18 month life?
They had a universal bleed kit there for $80 (Sounds high)
After the dirt works im going to start playing
Thanks
Greg
Hayes are pretty simple. You just have to watch air locks in the line.
Juicys are a bit more complicated, in that there are more steps, but if you follow the instructions you should not go wrong
Guys, I think something evil has crept into your medicine.
Hydo brakes are a cinch. It's the same as bleeding the car brakes and fixing sticking pistons. I have done this for years on my own road and race cars. A bit bigger but all the same.
Correct tools is a necessity.
I am running hayes nine and juicy 7's and while the juicy's are a better and funkier design performance is pretty much the same. Couldn't fault either.
Sticking pistons can be fixed by cycling them in and out a few times and then observing the motion on subsequent cycles to ensure they are now even. Yes check they are clean. Be careful not to pop them right out or you will bleed fluid every where and have to start again once the pistons are reseated.
If you were real keen you could pull them out clean them up. Make sure any lubricant is ok with the seals and fluids.
The whole idea of bleeding is ensuring there is no air in the system. As with cars, it is sometimes valuable to pump the lever to push the fluid through. This is safe when you have a closed system ie fluid at the top and a catch tank at the bottom. As you pump the lever the fluid is drawn into the master cylinder and pushed through and out at the caliper. Dont open the bleed valve to much, its good for the fluid to be pushed through and its easier to close it off when you are ready.
I think I have a spare hayes bleed kit in the tool box and have had plenty of practice with the hayes brakes swapping bits and cables around over the years. $80 is outrageous!!! but the special connection to the master cylinder at the lever is invaluable!
While trying to get a good feel at the lever (remove the freeplay) I even bled the hayes from bottom to top with great success!!
Hope you all find this helpful. I am available for a few beers!
Craig
Couple of further tips:
Have the brake lever still fixed to the bars and the caliper disconnected from the fork so that you have the caliper above/below/same level as the lever by just holding it that way. That way you can easily work air bubbles to the top of the system (caliper best if bleeding downwards) and get them out.
It also helps to have a good long length of clear tubing on the valve at the caliper so that when you depress the lever the fluid doesn't get past the end of that tube and end up pulling air back into the system when you release the lever. So ideally you depress the lever, fluid fills the clear tube along with whatever air bubbles are there, just wait for the air bubbles to rise to the top of the clear tube and then release the lever slowly, repeating until the bubbles stop coming.