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Sram 991 Hollow pin Vs Shimato XTR/Durace CN770: which is more durable?


tienster's picture

By tienster - Posted on 29 April 2009

I have always used Sram 991 Hollow Pin chains, but recently found out a new chain less than 500km use is now needing replacement.

Each Sram 991 Hollow Pin is about $60+, T7 has Shimano XTR chain for $40 - i am willing to give it ago

Anyone can give some advice about durability on the XTR chain?

Thanks.

Tien.

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Rob's picture

Yeah Tien... always wondered why you didn't use Shimano. 500Km is pretty poor, especially for someone on a small bike.

Shimano certainly last well (even HG93 - XT level). XTR are on special this week as you say, so go for it:

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/SHCH9N8TR/ti...

Smiling

evan's picture

With my limited knowledge on these things I was recommended to use Shimano Durace 9 speed chains on my bikes and found them to the best. Sram chains wear too quickly. I actually think Durace and XTR chains are the same thing, no doubt I'll be corrected if wrong.

Cheers
Evan

Alysum's picture

It says XTR & Dura Ace on the box. I got a couple on special at T7 last year - go for it Smiling

Tom

herzog's picture

Are these supplied with any of the special link pins?

Nic's picture

As we know, chains wear 3 to 5 times faster than cogs. Also a new chain tends to skip on a somewhat worn cog.

So the solution which I am going try is to keep three Shimano CN-7701 chains in rotation, until everything is worn out. As it happens, I recently picked up an XTR cassette at a good price.

BTW, this guy on eBay has the 11-32 XTR cassette available for US$128 shipped to Aus:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Shimano-XTR-CS-M970-9...

I didn't buy my cassette from him (I wanted a 12-34 tooth cassette for my 29er), but I did just buy M540 pedals from him for US$52 shipped (not yet received) - worked out to A$75 at Paypal's exchange rate. I was looking to buy the M970 XTR pedals, but the M540s are virtually identical - just weigh 352g vs 325 for the XTRs.

Cheers
Nic

Nic's picture

The CN-7701 from T7 comes in a box with I think 3 link pins (I have one at home, will check)...

Nic

ar_junkie's picture

I use both chains (on various bike - XTR/Dura Ace on both MTB and old roadie) and couldn't tell you which is more durable.
Common factor for chain wear/failure (with regards to these 2 chains) seems to be sandy and/or wet conditions, something us Sydneysiders are blessed with. This is true for most chains so it's nothing new.

Since adjusting my training to avoid those 2 factors both chains have lasted longer than they previously did. Post ride drive train maintenance is also big factor in getting more kms out of your links, and I'm referring to doing more than hosing it down with water... Eye-wink

Given that T7 have a good deal on at the moment, give the XTR a try... Worse case scenario is that you have a good & light training/backup chain...
Cool

Antsonline's picture

I am sure you are all thinking about this, but I actually run a Dura-Ace chain with a SRAM powerlink in it. The best of both worlds.
I have some good friends in the Specialized XC MTB team and know the mechanics fairly well. They swear by Shimano chains and claim that SRAM chains just dont last at all long enough. They always have two chains on rotation (something that I have taken to doing) - ride one, clean one - so their life isnt spent worrying about dirty chains. Just hose, flip the chain off, pop a new one on, and ride.

Works for me at least, and increases cassette life significantly.

Alysum's picture

I didn't know you could use a SRAM power link on a Shimano chain is it entirely compatible?
I use a CONEX power link with my XTR chains, no breakages so far Eye-wink

Tom

tienster's picture

for your comments.

So the Shimano XTR chains are the go.

As for the Sram chain, the one needing replacing is odd as all the previous Sram 991 Hollow Pin chains all lasted much longer (like a year!) and used in much worse conditions.

Tien.

Buck's picture

Was the rest of the drivetrain worn Tien? If so that can accelerate chain wear I've been told.

tienster's picture

This is on the new bike! every thing looks nice and clean and sharp, only the chain is stretched by 0.75 already.

Shifting is super nice and super smooth with XTR crankset and Sram XO RD and XTR cassette.
I am told XTR chain is even better shifting than Sram 991 chain.

Could it be that i am putting more tension on the chain by using high gears hence the stretch, and the previous bikes with similar chains i would spinning more with lower gears?

Tien.

bluray's picture

an xtr chain & sram power link together & have never had a problem with them.

Supagav's picture

Tien yes pushing higher gears means more pressure on the system as a whole. I dont think you are putting anything close to power down that some of the bigger riders on here do so not sure that it should of lead to increased chain stretch.

I am very lazy about measuring my chain for wear. (I have never done this). I Will only run XTR now after trying a couple of Sram Chains with very poor results.
My XTR chain would last at least 1yr (over 3000km)riding in all sorts of crap. I also use a SRAM powerlink to join the chain. If using a Shimano chain PLEASE use either the proper join link it is supplied with or another joining link like SRAM powerlink.

I have seen too many chains snap at the worst time and all caused by using an old pin to rejoin the chain in the first place. I have seen Brand New bikes come out of a bike shop where this has been done as well. Please dont do it. Oh and carry a powerlink with you all the time

Paul's picture

Tien, I use KMC chains and have had no problem with stretch and they are super strong. They even come in hollow pin and side windows.

http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=find&...

Alysum's picture

...going to come and talk about german made Rohloff chains? Eye-wink

Tom

Rob's picture

And although I didn't like how quickly a Wippermann chain wore when tried a while back I love the Wippermann ConneX Links.

delicious's picture

Always use the best available chain you can afford . With 9 speed Shimano the best available is DuraAce/XTR and yes they are the same thing. The difference with this compared to the cheaper models is that the inner and outer link is nickel plated and this causes the chain to roll better, experience less friction and thus last longer.
Everyone should go through two or three chains per cassette and rings. The chain is the weak point and is engineered to be so. When your chain checker informs you that it's time for a new chain, replace it and on, say the fourth change, it's time to change the lot.
The km travelled depends on the user and the conditions. No one here has mentioned cleaning and lubing. This is crucial. Some riders are clumsy and change under load. Others simply don't look after their stuff.
I'm going to contradict Gav here and state that using big gears and therefore more tooth engagement will encourage good wear of the entire system and prolong the life of everything. However, try and use all the gear combos and spread the work across all three rings as evenly as is practical. The normal rules of a straight chainline apply. And there is more stress on a chain when in the granny than at any other time...More engagement is the key to longevity.
When joining a Shimano chain, it's best to use the proper pin. Always. With that said I've had very good success for many years with a Connex link on most of my bikes. The exception is my DH'er. The stresses it goes through whilst plummetting down a hill tends to shake the link out so it's a Shimano pin in that chain.
I've never had a chain fail. Ever.
I just happen to use the cheapest Sram eight speed chain on my single speed commuter which is, as most would guess, joined with a Sram link. And it's all happy days there.
The logic of rotating three chains is twisted. Just replace each chain in turn and then the lot.
Never change gear under high load. Pikey!
Clean and lube people. Once a week is plenty on any bike even commuters. Do it when you pump your tyres up. I like Pro-Link the best. It really does repel crap.

hawkeye's picture

Yes, I've been unimpressed with the life of Wippermann chains. A couple of runs in damp conditions and it's toast, along with my drivetrain because I left it too long between checks. XTR or Rohloff for me from now on.

But yes, the links are excellent - they don't jam like SRAM ones and can be easily opened with yoru fingers throughout the (limited Sticking out tongue) life of the chain.

Bernd's picture

for me, and I ditto use the Wippermann link with it.
That is what is on my bikes and never had a problem in 3 1/2 Years on the NORCO and now 7 month on the FAT, which I have used a lot and use bigger gears as well since I also use a SS 69er Hardtail a bit! The SS has a old Shimano on it.
Bernd

pikey's picture

PETER!!!!!

Stop talking about me, Please.

Everybody knows I have broken XTR / wipperman connex / Cheap Shimano's but I am finding the SRAM 991 the best so far.

I have a new Rohloff ready for when I replace my drive train. I will report on the breaking strain of that chain when it happens Eye-wink

I'm currently inventing a belt drive system that can be used with a modified derailier. Stay tuned.

Pikey

-------------------------------------------
The chain is Evil and must be lubed Sticking out tongue
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Nic's picture

Delicious

Re "The logic of rotating three chains is twisted" - in what way and in what direction is the logic twisted? Clockwise or anti-clockwise?

Smiling

Nic

Supagav's picture
I'm going to contradict Gav here and state that using big gears and therefore more tooth engagement will encourage good wear of the entire system and prolong the life of everything

I will argue to point with you again delicious, Big gears results in more stress on the chain, thus possibly contributing to chain stretch to some degree.
When pushing a big gear the load is spread over more teeth thus wear on chain rings is reduced.
From my understanding most chain "stretch" actually happens at the roller/bushing part of the chain. The two ways that do the most damage to the chain are; crossing the chain over and riding in crap conditions whereby sand etc get into the moving parts of the chain a make a nice grinding paste.

thats enough from me.

Alysum's picture

Question: How often do you replace the powerlinks? Every chain change or every couple? Can they stretch just like the chain?

Cheers,
Tom

Nic's picture

Just received my order - chain comes in retail box with one pin...

Cheers
Nic

delicious's picture

I read a study about this very topic conducted by some engineering students. I'll dig it out and get back to you.
In the mean time, have a read at sheldonbrown.com about this sort of thing. Furthermore, single speeders tend to go for big rings for better engagement to receive better wear from all parts, because they wrench the snot out of that chain. Offroad SS'ers only use a 33 ring to get over obstacles, otherwise it's all 40+. At work, the BMX kids are forever replacing chains because thay all run a micro drive which is often a 25 front and a 9 rear. Why? It's part fashion madness yet also the smaller front doesn't scrape as they drop off a ledge. My more experienced work mates are constantly explaining to these kids why the chain is forever dying, and it's due to the small ratios. Also poor chainline and lack of maintenance. Teenagers never look after anything...

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