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My Tyre History


Brian's picture

By Brian - Posted on 28 January 2010

When I bought my Trance and it came with Michelin XCR AT folding 2.0". These only lasted 2 months before I blew the sidewall out. Since then I have mainly run Maxxis Crossmarks LUST 2.1 front and rear except for a short time when I had an Ignitor LUST 2.1 on the front. I run about 30-32 psi front and rear and it has always been a good combination but decided to go for a complete change to see how others perform.

28/01/09. Fitted Schwalbe Nobby Nic Evolution UST 2.25 (30psi) front and Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.25 (32psi) rear. I did a lap of the Dam and the conditions were damp but no puddles. From the beginning the front didn't feel good. I ended coming off the last bit as the board walk was slippery as ice. As I sit here in pain thinking about it I was probably going too fast but I have never experienced it as being so slippery. I am going to play around with the pressures and hoping a few rides in they get more grip otherwise the Crossmarks will be going back on.

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LadyToast's picture

I've just got a racing ralph and the chap at the shop, who really seemed to know his tyres told me that they are very sensitive to pressure. Don't go too high with them or they will skit around. What pressure were you running? I also heard that they do have some "give" to them anyway.

Brian's picture

I am running 30psi in the front and 32psi rear. What tyres and pressures will you be running front and rear?

LadyToast's picture

I think I'm getting a bit lardy so around 34psi. Your pressures sound right though.

Those planks are always slippy though, I have had several front wheel wash outs on the ones going down to the big flat rock near the golf course. I just have to take it mega easy now, regardless of what tyre I have. I don't really like the planks.

Whisperer's picture

I've been running racing ralphs as my race tyre of choice for over a year now.
I use a 2.2 on the front, and occasionally on the rear, usually a Kenda small block 8 as these are even faster rolling than the ralphs at the expense of a bit of grip.
The tyre pressure is really important though. I run no more than 30 in the front, which may seem low, but they are a big bag tyre, so that's comparable to 34ish in a crossmark. The only word of warning I'd give if you are running tubeless is not to go below 27-28, as they can burp with quite unfortunate results if you happen to be leaning into a corner at the limts of adhesion.....

I run the std version tubeless on stans rims with stans sealant.

They have significantly more grip than crossmarks, having run them for a coule of years too (when they were all the rage), but roll just as well or better, and weigh almost the same (around 520g in 2.2 size).

I do a lot of riding round the Dam, and find them fine on all the surfaces - including the boards.

the only downside to ralphs is their expense considering they are a bit fragile in the sidewall in really harsh conditions (like Stomlo) for the std version running tubeless. but that's the compromise I make for low rotational weight.

LadyToast's picture

Interestingly I just installed my Racing Ralph and the side wall says minimum 35psi.

But then when have we ever listened to warnings.

Brian's picture

Have you fitted it to the front or rear?

Pants's picture

Yeah it was slippery that day but something has to be wrong with those tyres, maybe they were too new and need a bit or wearing in first?

LadyToast's picture

RR on the front, I'm sticking with the Larsen on the back. Best rear tyre I have used so far for my style of riding. Shame the UST is so heavy though.

philberesford's picture

It can be done. A friend also annoyed about the weight difference runs UST Larsen on his tubeless rims with no drama.

Lach's picture

Aren't UST tyres the ones designed for tubeless rims? Or am I treeing up the wrong bark here?

Rob's picture

UST tyres seat on a standard rim just fine, but... standard rims aren't airtight which is kind of important Eye-wink

That's where airtight rim tape comes in. Such as Stans yellow tape, or the few other tubeless conversion kits that are on the market. There are several DIY options too. Search for 'Ghetto tubeless' Smiling

hawkeye's picture

Surprised to hear that RRs are prone to burping at less than 27psi Puzzled Whisperer, are you running UST or ghetto tubeless?

The UST versions I'm running (NN front, RR rear) were mega tight to get on the Crossmax SLRs - had to use all three Michelin tyre levers and a lot of force to get them on, compared with two fat old steel cored levers and being able to roll the last bit over with my thumbs for the Maxxis. The upside was that they aired up instantly.

Would appreciate any tips on pressures - the NN seemed a bit skatey on the front my last trip round the Dam,

philberesford's picture

I thought the LUST was Maxxis tubeless range, therefore making UST the regular inner tube variety or have I got that wrong?

I don't run tubeless (yet) so could be completely and utterly wrong. It has been known to happen before, once or twice.

Logan's picture

I have them on my Yeti and I find them very skittish especially in the sand, I am considering switching to Small Block 8 on the back and something else on the front but dont want to chuck the Fat Alberts yet.

I have been running 34 psi, so maybe should consider dropping the pressure a bit and see if that makes any difference.

Brian's picture

I'm now running Non Tubless Maxxis Aspens 2.1 60TPI. I am running them as tubeless with stans sealant and Mavic Crossmax ST UST rims. They were a bugger to seal the tyre bead but have been good once on. I run them at 30psi.

hawkeye's picture

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel#Tubeless

Tubeless
A tubeless tire system requires an air tight rim — capable of being sealed at the valve stem, spoke holes (if they go all the way through the rim) and the tire bead seat — and a compatible tire. Universal System Tubeless (UST), originally developed by Mavic, Michelin and Hutchinson[8] for mountain bikes is the most common system of tubeless tires/rims for bicycles.[9] The main benefit of tubeless tires is the ability to use low air pressure for better traction without getting pinch flats because there is no tube to pinch between the rim and an obstacle.[8]

Some cyclists have avoided the price premium for a tubeless system by sealing the spoke holes with a special rim strip and then sealing the valve stem and bead seat with a latex sealer.[8] However, tires not designed for tubeless application do not have as robust a sidewall as those that are.[8]

The drawbacks to tubeless tires are that they are notorious for being harder to mount on the rim than clincher tires,[8] and that the cyclist must still carry a spare tube to insert in case of a flat tire due to a puncture.[8]

In 2006, Shimano and Hutchinson introduced a tubeless system for road bikes.[10]

jdb's picture

I have been running my 2.1 RR's at 25 on the front and 27 on the rear on Red Metal Zero UST rims without issues for over a year now. During that time my weight has ranged from 78 to 83, depending on if I’ve been training or not (I'm too close to the top of that weight range atm for my liking lucky training has just started). I recently replaced them with a new set and it was hard work to break the seal.

I have a set of 2.1 NN's on another set of rims that I run at the same pressures, they don't get used as much as I prefer the RR.

armo's picture

I am about to test a crossmark 2,25 LUST on the front of my Trance to see if i can get a bit more grip while maintaining good rolling speed, currently running crossmark LUST 2.1 front and rear, 28 psi F. 38 psi R

Logan's picture

Anyone have a good recommendation for tyres for lower rolling speed?

Kenda Small Block 8 are quite highly rated and Crossmark as well. Anyone have any experience in running either of these?

I am finding the Fat Alberts that I have are well to fat really, high rolling resistence and they dont hook up in the sand/loose stuff we have that well. Most of my use on the bike is going to be racing so want something that doesnt have as high rolling resistence.

Ray's picture

specialized fast track lk are a fast tyre on road or dry ground and grip well even in mud if you're confident on them as they clear good. you can get them in an s-works version thats only a bit lighter but the side walls are very thin.

hawkeye's picture

... is good. Not quite as low rolling resistance as the Crossmark, but there's not much in it and it has much better climbing and braking traction. I haven't tried the SB8 but comment I've heard is that the TT rolls better and is lighter (which equals better acceleration).

The Racing Ralph seems better again for rolling resistance than the Larsen but I'm still working out whether pressures will solve the grip difference.

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