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drivechain 1x10 modification


rossco_'s picture

By rossco_ - Posted on 23 February 2014

Has anyone modified from 2x10 to 1x10 before? I am thinking to replace 36t single ring at front, the smallest I can get for 120bcd crank and add 42 tooth cog at rear. What does feel like? Enough low gear to climb hill? Do I need to adjust derailleur much? I don't really want to spend $1.2k for SRAM xo1 upgrade.

PS. My crank is race face next 28 x 40. Another question is if I can fit the single ring for smaller spider as assume bigger spider. Thanks. Photo attached.

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Oldernslower's picture

FWIW I've modified an XX 2x10 to 1x10 and to 3x10. You seem to be using a Truvativ 120BCD spider. My suggestion would be to get a 104BCD spider for your crank like this http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/truvativ-10-speed... or this http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/truvativ-10-speed... . That way you can go much smaller on the chain ring if required.

The main issue is can you adjust the front der to the new rings IF you stay with a 2x10 - but if go 1x10 then this irrelevant.

The actual gearing you need is dependent on the terrain you ride and your climbing ability. Recently I've been running a Rotor 33 front ring and a 11x40 rear der and found, FOR ME on my terrain, that this meant I could stay in the 33 for 90% of the time, using the granny only for steep (for me) climbs. So choose your chainring to suit you. A 104 spider means you can go down to 32 or 33(?) if needed.

You won't need to adjust the Der much except for the B screw if you go to a 42 rear. If you are fitting a 42 cog to your SRAM cluster then you may have to fit a longer B screw - but some of the makers of 42 cogs include a longer B screw. If you go to a 1x10 single ring I believe there are 104BCD rings that mimic the XO1 and XX1 chainrings.

HTH

GAZZA's picture

I ordered it before i realised i was selling my bike so don't need it now.
It's the green anodized one that's just been made available.
Can't remember the name but i'll find out if you're interested?

Oldernslower's picture

That spider doesn't have seperate spider, so you stuck with 120/80 BCD. If you use that crank then chainline won't be optimal for a 1x10 setup - useable but not optimal. changing cranks would still be cheaper than an XO1 setup and you could use the XO1 chainrings as they have a 104 BCD.

deccy29's picture

I would 100% reccomend Wolf Tooth Components rings and 42T adaptor. i have been using these for 6 months now, no dropped chains and by far the simplicist system i have used. I managed Cape to Cape on a 34T front 36T rear, but the 42T rear (werent available then) would have been nice as a bail out gear. I also now have a 32T front just so I have a few options. A few colours and all made in the US adds to the product too. They have a full list of compatabilities etc...

Pants's picture

Ive been running 32 front to 36-11 at rear for years and find it fine for riding around the northern beaches. However for a long uphill climb you might want lower gearing - i prefer a harder gear and lower cadence. also i find that i get into top gear easily and do wish i had a few gears up my sleeve.

Try to remember what gears you use at the moment and punch the ratios into a calculator or excel and work out what 1x10 gears would fit!

Andy Bloot's picture

The 42 tooth Gazza has is from One up
You sacrifice the 17t ring to fit the bigger 42 ring on a 10 speed cassette
http://reviews.mtbr.com/just-in-oneup-components...

Note that Works Components now do a 11-40 cassette that doesn't have the big jump in gears of the 42t conversions
Combined with their 32 or 34 narrow wide chain ring, you have a set up that will mean you rarely, if ever, lose your chain (without the need for a guide or cluth der)
Both available from Rod at Crankin for $270 delivered

Lots of choice on N/W chain rings and 42t conversions, but the WC is a good ratio on a 10 speed cassette at a good price
Even my puny stumps are considering the swap to a 32 front 11-40 rear

With the double ring crankset, you may find the chain line difficult to get correct
And some people use spacers to get the chain line perfect
3 ring cranks seem to work better, but I'm no authority, just done a lot of research myself

Brian's picture

I would always run a clutch rear derailleur regardless of set up as its just so quiet

Andy Bloot's picture

yep, but just to save a bit of dough on the initial set up

What gearing are you running on your trail bike Brian
And short or medium cage

Brian's picture

I'm running 1x11 on the Epic so it only comes in one size.

Andy Bloot's picture

Affordable aftermarket 1 x 11 set ups seem to still be a while away I believe

rossco_'s picture

Some rumour about shimano new 1x11

http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derai...

Seem available for xtr only in 2015. I agree need to wait a while for below $700 groupset.

Giantxc's picture

I have converted my 012 Giant anthem x1 29er 2 x10 to 1 x10 with a wolftooth 36t chainring and I really like the simplicity and the quietness of the new chainring. No more chain slap or twisting/dropping chains. I had previously destoyed 3 sram x9 derailers because of chain slap and the chain twisting after a downhill section. Because of the 120 bcd on my sram x7 cranks I had to get the 36tooth chainring. My front chainrings were really worn and this was the cheapest option plus I wanted to try a single. I was worried that the gearing would be too hard up steeper hills. I ride alot of the time out Awaba and while I can still get up camelback climb on the 36t it is more of a grind. I think most people on a 29er would struggle on steep hills with a 36tooth chainring. I am waiting on the 42t cog from wolftooth to get a easier gear for the steep climbs and then I think I will have a good range of gears. Hope this helps

rossco_'s picture

Thanks, guys. A lot of good advices! I tend to do 30/32 at the front and 11-40 or 42 cassette. But also need to find a crank first.

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