Brakes

just opend my rotors that arrived this morning seem absolutely perfect, cant wait to give them a go!

Definatly wanna give those brakes a workout before doing duckholes:) Adding cowan and wilkins sounds good thou bump the ride up to around the 28km mark. Thanks for the info.

Jono

Some combinations of pads and rotors require different amounts of time to bed in. For instance, my Avid Polygon rotors with Serfas pads took no time at all to break in. Maybe 3 or 4 hard stops and they were about 90-95%. However, my Hope Ti 6 floating rotor with again serfas pads took a heap longer. I did about 15 odd hard stops and they were about 50-60%. It took a further 50 odd kms to break in. But now they are absolutely awesome and well out perform the Avid Poly rotors (same bike, caliper, pads).

When you install them, make sure you clean the rotors really well. I use 'wax and grease remover' for cleaning my rotors. If it's good enough for cleaning my cars before painting, then it's good enough for this application.

If your lever is still going to the grip, then it sounds like you either have a leak at a join somewhere and air is getting in, or you just haven't bled them enough.

If you're getting pad rub, then you ned to align your caliper. Loosen the bolts then apply the brake lever. Then tighten up the caliper again. If this doesn't work you'll need to align them by eye. Make sure the pads have air between the rotor and pad surface. If you are stil getting rub and it's occasional (ie not constant), then your rotor is bent/warped. No biggy, just need to bend it in the opposite direction to the warp. do it progressively, don't just go gun-ho on them. Do it a bit, if it wasn't enough, do it a bit more and so on. Best to use a clean rag when you do it, so as not to put your greasy mits all over the rotor surface. If you still have dramas, head to your LBS and they'll have a special tool that is specific to adjusting rotors.

HTH

Tark

I've found new-in-package rotors to require truing in the past. Things get bent sometimes during shipment by having other things put on top of them. No biggie. A shifting spanner is all that's needed. There is plenty of help on youtube for the how-to part of the job.

Jono came around yesterday and we changed the brake fluid in each end. There was some contamination in both and I suspect some air in the master cylinder for the front. No leaks that I could see at either end, so it was good to eliminate that as a potential cause. The hydraulic part of the system was performing as it should by the time he left here.

After a few passes up and down the nearest cross-street the pads were finally starting to bite and were giving maybe 50%, so I think he'll find they will improve over the next few rides. Next stop if he's still not happy in a few weeks is to look at getting some Shimano OEM pads, perhaps the organic ones.