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Initial Out-of-the-box service
I just recieved my brand spanking new Scott Scale in the mail yesterday, and I am in the process of putting it all together.
Can I do all this myself? Or is it smarter for me to just shell out the cash and put it in to a bike shop?
All that needs to be done is the front calipers to be attatched to the Fork, brakes adjusted (they seem very weak, would they need to be bled/reserviced after sitting in a box for so long?), and maybe the gearing/derailleurs adjusted if they need it?
I am not mechanically retarded, but would prefer to do it right for my expensive toy.
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Super easy stuff, can't go wrong (famous last words)
What's a worry is that you are saying the calliper isn't attached to the fork. In which case how do you know the brakes are weak? Do not pull the brakes with nothing between the callipers!
You might as well set the gearing yourself (or learn how to) because the cables will stretch after a few rides and they'll need another tweak.
Where are you located? Perhaps one of the more knowledgeable of the mob might lend a hand if close by. It's always nice to see new bling too, don't forget to take a picture before it's first outing - will never look the same again
The front brakes I have not tried yet, I was talking about the rear.
I have the Park Tools Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair, might have a flick through that and check it all out.
Talking about squeezing brakes with no rotors between them, how do you remedy that? It has not happened to this new one, but it always happens accidentally with other bikes moving them in and out of the car. May as well ask now
Pics will be up tonight hopefully once I put the bar-ends on
You can get spacer for between the pads but anything solid that is the right thickness would work fine.
If the brake's have been squeezed with no rotor between the pads then as long as the pistons haven't popped out you can gently prise them back. Insert a "prising tool" (screwdriver...) between the pads and gently/slowly squeeze the pads apart again. Take care not to damage the pad surface, and ensure you are pushing the piston back in straight. Might also want to ensure both sides are going back at the same time/rate.
I'm also wary of squeezing the brake lever or doing the above procedure when the bike is upside down as it may cause an air bubble in the brake line, meaning you then need to bleed the brakes. Probably best to do this with the bike upgright.
Don't know what brand/model brakes you have but you may then want to centre the calliper over the rotor. This is as simple as loosening the calliper mounting bolts half a turn, squeezing the brake lever, then tightening the calliper bolts. (Do this with the bike fully assembled, wheels on, and upright.) When you release the brake lever you should see both pads retract from the disc an equal amount.
Good luck!
Just curious, how does air enter if the brakes are squeezed with the bike is upside down
Well, if oil is heavier than air then air can only get in when oil comes out. And if the bike is upside down this implies that oil may leak out of the lever and thus let air in.
Think about it - you can take the lid off the car's brake fluid reservoir and it's all good, no air gets into the fluid or system. Now turn your car upside down and try it
is the bike builder's "bible" as far as I'm concerned, but I'm sure the Park one is OK.
With the right tools bike assembly is not hard. I've changed over groupsets and brakes on bikes a couple of times, do all my own servicing including hydraulics. Only things I haven't touched are fork and shock internals. So if I can do it by reading books and watching folks from time to time you'll be fine. Just take your time and ask questions here if there's anything you're not sure about. I know you're keen to get riding but rushing is a recipe for making costly mistakes... so take it easy.
how could you want to do it yourself? I would have it down the bike shop back and be riding rather than all that fiddling about!
I find Youtube is also an excellent resource. http://www.youtube.com
It's amazing that the nice folks on the interwebs film bike repairs and then distribute it for free.
Not only amateur repair guys like The Bicycle Tutor but also manufacturers like Fox and Park Tool
http://bicycletutor.com/
http://parktool.com/
Whenever I do any maintenance I keep my iPhone close by and watch how to do it a few times before I do it myself. Brilliant. I also keep a copy of Zinn in reach too.
Phil
Assuming no BB or headtube facing is needed, DIY would be quicker I reckon.
I replaced a whole drivetrain including cranks, and a new set of forks. Once done, I took it to the bike store for them to give it a once-over (e.g. basic service). Best of both worlds really
When turning the bicycle upside down or on its side the brake system may have some air bubbles inside the reservoir tank which are still there when the reservoir tank cover is replaced, or which accumulate in various parts of the brake system when it is used for long periods. The M486 disc brake system is not designed to be turned upside down. If the bicycle is turned upside down or on its side, the air bubbles inside the reservoir tank may move in the direction of the calipers. If the bicycle is ridden in this condition, there is the danger the brakes may not operate and a serious accident could occur. If the bicycle has been turned upside down or on its side, be sure to operate the brake lever a few times to check that the brakes operate normally before riding the bicycle. If the brakes do not operate normally, adjust them by the following procedure.
Source: http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/conte...