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Stans notubes advice
Just got a Stans NoTubes kit for the youngster's bike and was after some advice.
The rims it's going on are DT Swiss X430s. The instructions say that I can just put the rubber rim strip straight in, but I'm concerned about the spoke holes possibly rubbing and cutting through it over time.
Is it wiser to run a layer of the yellow tape around the rim first or am I worrying about nothing?
Thansk for your help. 
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I run X1800 Rims on my Yeti and I used a layer of yellow tape before the normal strip, anything more it wouldnt seal, anything less it wouldnt seal either.
I have the same wheels and keep playing with the idea of converting them. So interested to know how you go with it.
I've got DT Swiss 465d rims, I just used the rubber rim strip - no problems - they have been converted now for nine months, have an LUST crossmark rear and a non tubeless ignitor up front.
Steve
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As per previous comments you need rim tape. The tape actually creates the seal around the spoke holes while the rubber rim strip's function is to ensure a snug fit between bead of the tyre and rim.
I actually run tape only (FRM) which is about $20 a roll and does about 6 wheels. Leaving the rim strip out makes it a bit more fiddly to get the bead to seal but once the tyre is on it works fine. It has advantages of decreasing rotational mass but more importantly is far easier should you get a flat and have to whack a tube in.
Hawkeye I have had stans on MTX 29 and 31 rims on my DH bike for a year and i have run with and without rim tape with no probs.
The rim strip is what seals it. UST tyres even seal without the sealant.
If it's the stans yellow tape you can often get away just with that and the special valve. It's what the stans rims require to go tubeless anyway. I'm not sure about your rim but the stans site has a list of compatible rims.
EDIT: I just had a look on the site and I can't find a list of other rims supported, but it says that you should use the supplied rim tape or keep the existing rim tape in.
Video here:
http://173.193.82.224/Movies_Kit_Installation.aspx
I put a wrap of the yellow tape in, installed the rim strip, and the tyres installed well.
The thought occurred to me afterwards that a good reason to put the yellow tape in is this: if you do get a puncture the goop won't fill and you need to put a tube back in, you'll need to remove the rubber rim strip. Without the tape, your replacement tube isn't going to last too long.
I fitted a non-UST Larsen to the back. No hope of getting the bead to seat with a floor pump - just forget it. Compressor required, liberal amounts of concentrated sudsy water and a bit of attention to the bead, but relatively straightforward. Beaded up with the customary ping second attempt after applying more suds. Even bead seating all the way round at about 40psi.
UST Ignitor on the front. Tight to get on - very tight, needed tyre levers. Aired up to the point where it would maintain inflation much more easily, but no ping and required 65psi before the bead seated evenly all the way around.
Conclusion: worked well, but I think Bontrager rim strips are offer more positive engagement with UST-beaded tyres, and are lighter. In the Stans kit's favour, the valve cores are removeable so you can top up the sealant without unseating any of the tyre.