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Chain sound
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
For starters I am using rock and roll gold lube. After lubing I usually get about 10k through a ride with no noise then after that I begin to get that sort of unoiled sound. Following instructions on label and tried adding more and less but still get the same problem. Suggestions.
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Is it the same noise that repeats when your cranks are in the same position?
Is it the same noise that repeats when your cranks are in different positions?
The reason for the 2 questions is I had a repetitive noise squeak that was consistent but seemed random it happened when my cranks were at various positions and it ended being a jocky bearing on the rear derailleur.
Not so much a squeak. More a ready for lube sound. Happens when putting effort in pedaling.
Purple Extreme.
I get the same noise your talking about. Its like a dry chain sound like you hear on some BMX bikes. I tend to notice it more if its dry and dusty. I also notice it more depending on how much of it you wipe off when you clean your chain. If you give it a really good wipe down, it tends to not last as long between lubes. However i have noticed that cleaning your chain with it a couple of times tends to make it last a little longer.
I took my road setup MTB for a ride down the fernleigh track one weekend for something different. Ended up doing close to 40k, and my chain sounded like it needed lubing by the end of it. Very dry, almost squeeky.
So it seems to last around the 30-40k mark on your chain. 2 laps of glenrock (30k) and mine needs re-doing.
One thing i did try, and its probably not recommended, after using the rock and roll, i tried putting a small amount of tri flow onto the chain to "wet" it thne wiped it down. Took away the noise for a lot longer, but the chain was black after a ride through glenrock from the dirt it attracted, but still shifted great and was not noisy.
That's the sound. I used to use Pedro on the old bike in the 90's and used to last a good 100k. I tried some lanolin spray worked well buy was black as charcoal.
Give your chain a good scrub with a tooth brush and diesel on or off the drivetrain then dry and lube with Rock'n Roll Gold or Squirt.Lube after every ride or after you clean your bike.Freddie.
If it happens when you're putting in more effort it could be that your chain is lightly rubbing on your front derailleur? Just a thought.
I like the Pedros ice, best one I've used seems good for 50km in dusty conditions
Can you post an audio file, it will make it much easier to identify the issue
Take the chain off and give it a good degrease and a scrub with a toothbrush. Diesel works well. dry it well and relube it. You might have small bits of grit in the links which when the oil is new lubricates them enough to get rid of noise for 10k or so.
To me RnR Gold is not a very good lube even for road bikes. I had a very good experience with RnR Extreme, so I tried the Gold on my road bike. Not only I had to lube after every ride, but also my chain lasted only 3.5K.
Now I'm using ProLink Gold and my chain has 5.5K on it and still going strong and I only need to relube every 120km.
Cheers
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/images/reviews...
reviewed here http://www.google.com.au/search?rlz=1C1GPEA_enAU...
Lasts longer and protects better than anything else I have used. Paired with a Rohloff SLT-99 chain and you will never have a problem, only problem is the chains are still out of production until November 2012
is it a high end chain or not? if not, buy one, then once you use deisel or a degreaser on them, you need to completely re lube the chain, this can only be done with an old frypan and some grease, you need to lay the chain in a frypan, drop in the grease and heat,move the chain around a bit aswell, this will allow the grease to penetrate properly, then pull the chain out, wipe off the excess, and let it dry, all of the lubes are only to lube the chain against the chainwheel and cassette, most dont get all the way into the chain itself, that is a tip from a mechanic i used to work with, he is now the mechanic for jarrod graves and still works at FTR in Brisbane
I pressume you mean low heat but just checking.
oops, sorry, yeah just enough to get the grease melting
never heard of the whole heating grease method, may i ask why? i thought if you were going to grease the chaing you would do it similar to packing grease into a car wheel bearing. the chain is just the standard hg74 on a anthem x2.
basically thats all it is, getting the grease warm enough to run into all the links, otherwise you need to completely pull it apart, works a treat too, my daughter has done approx 7000k's on here cervelo with a dura ace chain, by greasing it every 1500 k's or so, and still runs like a new one with minumal chain stretch, but her next chain will be a ybn titanium worth close to $230 on crc for a 10 speed
The chain is only about 300-350km old.
Only one lube squirt is by far the best
Off topic slightly:-
What is the average km's that everyone is getting from an MTB chain?
I only ask as I've just replaced my chain and cassette, the old one had done 1500km, always kept lubed and cleaned after every ride. Admittedly it was a low spec chain that came with the bike but now replaced with a 991 SRAM chain and like for like cassette.
@Pete B, I think there would be so many variables to that question. Cassette brand and model, conditions riding in and so on. Mine tend to last longer now mainly because I try to avoid riding in the wet.
A decent cassette will far outlast a chain. I run 2 chains at the moment - swapping every 100 or so km, sometimes less (990 cassette and 971 chains). I recon you could actually run 3 chains to 1 cassette.
I also lube my chain off the bike when I can, let it soak in, then wipe dry before refitting. Obviously I don't always have time for that and just chuck some lube on, spin the chain for a while, then wipe down.
The alternate chain gets cleaned in turps, washed in water, dried with a rag, then hung up to fully air dry for 30 or so min, then re-lubed and put back in the original box still wet. It then gets wiped down before re-fitting.
Its actually a fairly quick process to clean once you have your routine - chain off and cleaned. Back wheel off and cassette inspected; light mess wipe with rag, if heavy then cassette off and cleaned with turps and then water. Jockey wheels wiped with rag. Chainrings wiped with rag, or crankset removed if really dirty and same treatment as cassette. all up not much over 30min for a new feeling drivetrain and less wear due to cleanliness.
I do bascially the same thing except I clean with a biodegradable degreaser and I swap chains about every 300km for the mtb and 600km for the roadie. Works like a charm for me. I got around 5500km on my mtb with a 2 chain strategy before I needed to replace the chains, cassette and chainrings (sram 990 cassette and 971 or 991 chains). On my road bike I did around 18000km before I had to replace the drivetrain (ultegra cassette and HG93 chains).
Sounds like quality components are the key as my cleaning seems to be on a par with you guys.
Unfortunately when I ordered a new cassette from the LBS I ordered the same as what was on already - a lowly 950. Next replacement will be a 990. Hopefully the 991 chain will last longer than the last and preserve the cassette for a few more km's.
I think the type of rider that you are would make quite a difference. I am only around 77kgs and I don't mash my pedals (much). If you were a heavier rider that really mashed away then you will wear out your chain a bit faster. If that chain is ridden in the wet and is full of crap then it would wear out even faster still.
Thats one of my main problems - 95kg of hack, not much technique. I tend to mash a few gears higher than everyone else and use a lot of big ring. I do try to spin a bit more these days and I'm trying to build up some more endurance.
Yip avoid wet tracks, clean and preen and I'm also a massive Squirt fan...everything lasts longer!