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Thoughts on getting my bike Capital Punishment-ready?
Hi everyone,
I recently bought a Merida One-Twenty 500D full suspension bike, and I've been riding it regularily around the Blue Mountains ever since. I now signed up for Capital Punishment, a cross country enduro race near Canberra. I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on getting a bike ready for this race specifically. My main concern is the overall weight of my bike (currently 14.1 Kg) and getting the right tyres for the conditions I'll come across.
I've been thinking to replace my Shimano 552-10 chainset with a Shimano 590-10 chainset, and to replace the stock tires with Maxxis Crossmarks. My remaining budget is $400, which I aim to spend mainly on reducing the weight of my bike. Any thoughts?
I've attached the current specs of my bike:
Specs:
FRAME One-Twenty Comp-D BC A-Link
SHOCK X-Fusion O2RL
FORK Rock Shox XC32 TK coil 120 taper
BB Shimano octalink
B-LEVER attached
BRAKES Shimano M446 180
CHAIN KMC Z99 9s
CHAINWHEEL Shimano M522-10 42-32-24
DERA-F Shimano Deore-10
DERA-R Shimano XT-10
FREEWHEEL Shimano CS-HG62-10 11-36
GRIP MERIDA Double
H/BAR MERIDA Pro OS 680 R15
STEM MERIDA Pro OS 6
H/SET BC Comp Neck
HUB-F Shimano M435 cen
HUB-R Shimano M435 cen
PEDAL XC Alloy
RIM MERIDA Comp D
SADDLE MERIDA Sport
SEAT CLAMP MERIDA Pro QR
POST MERIDA Pro 2 SB15 31.6
SHIFTERS Shimano SL-M591 3
SPOKES Black Stainless
TYRES MERIDA Trail 2.25
SIZES 16-18-20-22
Total Bike Weight (kg) 14.1
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My tip: If you have $400 plus, look to replace your wheels with lighter ones. (As you're doing with your tyres, I assume.). Because the rims are so far out from the hub, their mass has a significant impact. Spinning up light wheels as opposed to heavier ones will save significant effort, and will be a psychological boost also. (The difference between having to run a race with a mule versus a stallion!)
The effort saved becomes significant over a course of 100 kilometres!
At around $400, you'll be able to pick up very decent set of second-hand wheels. I'm looking to upgrade my own, and saw a XTR set (weight around 1500 grams) go for $350. There are others; moderately heavier but significantly cheaper. The best upgrade possible, pound for pound. (Or is that, dollar for gram?)
Not sure what your reasons are for changing the chainset; smaller chainring and different cluster sizes? Not something I'd do for weight purposes. (The basic principle is that its the bits that move where one gets the biggest benefits from weight reduction.)
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Adrian.
PS: See you at the CP: I've also entered. Should be a good un!
Wheels will be your best bet from a pure kit upgrade perspective. Tyres are also really important. Crossmarks are ok, but look at some Schwable tyres too - Racing Ralph would be a good choice, as there are significant sections of pedalling, so low rolling resistance is also important.
The biggest thing you do to improve your enjoyment and speed however (and sorry if you have done this) would be to move to clipless pedals and proper MTB shoes with a stiff sole. It massively improves your pedalling efficiency. XT pedals are amazing value and will never let you down.
Dont worry too much with the chainset. You might save up to (maybe) 400grms, but with wheels you could save a KG easily. Tyres would save you a massive amount too.
Cassettes are a relatively easy place to save weight for not much money and you'd be surprised how much can be saved there. It also counts as rotating weight - as mentioned above - key.
Spend any more money you have on taking your other half out for dinner, to placate her after the huge amounts of riding you will be doing in order to prepare.
You'll love it - Cap Pun is one of the best.
Unless you are replacing your cranks for a reason, leave them. As said, the wheels and tyres are the best upgrade as far as rolling performance goes. Look for a set of Shimano XT wheels, ensuring you get the set that matches your fork axle option (ie 15mm through or QR). Put on a set of tubeless Racing ralphs (run the 2.25s they handle the looser stuff a bit better than the 2.1) and you will notice a serious amount of change. The bike will accelerate so much faster and over a longer distance this makes so much difference, especially towards the end of the event where smaller hills seem like mountains.
If you need to change the cranks for a reason, then don't bother with deore, you might as well put on a set of SLX, they aren't that much dearer and you will save a bit more weight. The bare SLX cranks and the bare XT cranks are essentially the same weight, it's just the chainrings that make the difference. If you are changing your cranks, depending on the wear condition of your chain and cassette you will most likely need to change them at the same time. You will often see XT cassettes with XTR chains on Ebay for around $100. It's a good way to upgrade. The XT cassette is awesome and light, plus the XTR chain is second to none. Best wear and anti corrosion characteristics. With some love that combo will last for at least a few thousands kms.
As Ants said, the pedals are a damn good option as well. Clipless really does make a massive difference, however, if you haven't made the move over, either do it asap, or wait until after the event. Learning to ride clipless on an event isn't probably the best option, unless you like jumping in the deep end.
Turbo charge your engine though! and by that i mean fitness!
Thanks everyone for the detailed feedback, that's excellent! Really appriciate it. Looks like I'll be going for a new set of wheels and tyres then, nevermind the crankset.
How about saving the $400 for now and doing the race with your stock setup, with adequate training you will finish the race without issue no matter what tyres, wheels, groupset you are using. Just go out there and enjoy and then think about changes but honestly, as already suggested, the best changes you can make are to the engine. I commute to work on a road bike and I have people in full suss 26 inch MTB's fly past me at times, I would much rather have that sort of power in my legs than 100g less weight on my wheels.
I did my first 100km (the fling) last year with a totally stock bike which weighs 14kgish Trek fuel 5ex (21.5inch frame)
After it I wish I was fitter! Best thing to do first up is train for a big ride. Just ride a lot. That way you save weight on yourself!
Now I ride with a group of guys with my road bike for training/fun, I bought a starter trek 1.2 second-hand weighs about 10kgs after riding for a few weeks I can keep up with the other guys on there super expensive 6 to 7kg road bikes.
After you get your fitness up then upgrade the wheels to save a few kilos to help get that edge.
+1 for training.
How to prepare bike = wear out the current chain/cassette/tyres by riding a lot, then put a new set on and go for 1-2rides to bed them in before the event.