Tubeless tires??

I've been a tubeless convert for many years now & the best advice that I can give you is go for a tape & valve conversion rather than the heavier rubber strips & use proper UST tyres rather than tubeless ready (TL/ 2Bliss etc).

From the sound of it you value speed over hardcore grip so pick a 2.1 to 2.4 tyres.
Personally I like Maxxis for ease of use as well as Continental & Schwalbe.

I'd go for a 2.25 Rocket Ron F & 2.25 Racing Ralph myself but I've also found the 2.1s great as well as the Conti Mnt King/ X King or Race king (All 2.2) work well.

A scoop of Stan's sealant is also recommended.

All the best
T

Manly Dam is my playground as well.
I've got UST rims so I don't need the rubber strip.

My original wheels were Giant rims and I used Stans rubber strips with the white Goo shit you get with the kit. It worked OK solved my Flatting issue instantly but I did have slow leaks even with propper UST Tyres.
Ive used Maxxi Ardents, Continental Racing King. Maxxi Crossmark.

Apart from the Ardents, none of those ryes were really confident inspiring tyres for The downhill freeway as well as Frankels decent. I think my Continentals lasted 1 lap on the front. they got changed back to the Ardents quick smart.

Maybe its my style of riding but I need something agressive on the front for Manly Dam, cascades and many other places I've ridden.

The last 12 mths I've been on the Schwalbe combo everyone raves about. Nobbly nick on the front, & racing ralph on the rear. I was blown away the grip around Manly dam. no new revelation there.

But with schwalbe there is so much choice with different compounds , different set ups its sooo confusing for someone whos just getting into it.

If you go UST its a safe bet. At an absolute minimum go snakeskin. TL ready Pace star compound. My front tyre lasted me just on 12 mths the rear just on 6. They are both totally shagged now. & yedterday I recieved my new set. Don't bother with the standartd Evo tyre Its been said here & thousads of times. yes they are ligh but sidewalls will leak & require constant maintenance.

so whatever tyre you choose......good luck....

and speaking of ripping sidewalls

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/StanThe...

just as well the new tyre has arrived

Ignitor is excellent on the front in 2.35 size teamed with Larsen 2.0 on the back. Great in loose conditions. Yes it can let go without warning right at the limit but i've always got it back.

The Schwalbe NN/RR combo is good, but i've formed the view you need to run the front in reverse rotatuon to match the Ignitor for plantedness. The rectangular blocks run end-on into the slide in tbe normal directon and i found that set like that once it goes it don't come back, unlike the ignitor (witness broken collarbone last year).

In reverse rotation (so that the blocks look toed in at the top) yo get the broader side of the block facing into the slide, and it seems to be better behaved on loose over hardpack. I've only run the one event so far with it set like that but the difference was noticeable.

Will update you with my findings when i've had more time on it. Making the same change with the Rubenas i'm currently using yielded a similar improvement in confidence.

You also need to run lower pressure on the NN. 30 was good for the ignitor and Rubena Kratos. 25 would be typical for my Nobby Nic front.

OK, just found this on the Schwalbe website:

What are the advantages of Tubeless Ready tires?
They offer better rolling resistance, puncture protection and are lighter. In comparison with both „real“ Tubeless tires and regular fitting with a tube, there are weight savings, as well as a distinct reduction in rolling resistance. Besides which, the sealing fluid provides excellent puncture protection.

Are there disadvantages?
Fitting is more complicated and as such it may be better to leave assembly to a specialist. In certain cases ensuring that the sidewalls are fully sealed could take a lot longer than anticipated. Also changing a tire is more complicated, as the old sealing fluid has to be cleaned out. Caution is generally required as the sealing fluid can easily mark clothing or furnishings.

When converting light weight tubeless-ready MTB racing tires to tubeless, the process can take up to 3 days of consistent sealing and sealant will seep from the sidewalls of the tires. LIGHTWEIGHT MTB racing tires are inherently thin in the sidewalls and will require extra care.

Jp, haven't raced the fling, but you havent got snakeskins then your main risk is a tyrewall tear on the back tyre - it depends a little on how you ride if that's going to be a problem - at least if you know you should be a little more careful and softer around any sharp edged rocks with the rear. Maybe keeping 32psi will help a little , but at the least , read up on how to repair a sidewall tear and carry a pair of tubes

For 100km - you should carry 2 tubes and a repair kit anyway (I carry a bit of gaffer tape for these repairs myself) can macgyver a stack of problems with gaffer tape ;D

Btw also depends on weight and dually or ht - 60kg light riders on a dually could ride cling wrap successfully

Schwalbe don't make a tyre suited to riding long term at Red Hill. I've destroyed a Racing Ralph and a Rocket Ron, both of which wore through the sidewalls too quickly running them on the rear.
Recently been using a Nobby Nic 2.25, Snakeskin, Pacestar compound on the rear set up tubeless on a Stans Flow rim with just tape and sealant. Inflated first go with a cheapo floor pump and have had no problem holding air.
Unfortunately after less than 3 months and 500km the tyre is about stuffed. Sidewalls have stood up really well but the side blocks began tearing away after just a few rides and the centre blocks are now about down to nothing.
Have had great wear from a Bontrager XR4 set up the same way on the front but it is a bit chunkier than I like for the rear. Bontrager XR3 is what I'll be replacing the NN with this week.

Hi beanie,
I personally ride two trek bikes, both of which are set up tubeless with the bontrager system.
Being quite XC orientated my personal favourite tread is the XR2 in 2.1 inch Team Issue Tubeless Ready.
The advantages of the bontrager system to me are pretty solid
1) Since you're already on a trek the bontrager rims I'm guessing you're probably using the bontrager rim strips just snap in and work a trick. Nice solid system
2) The bontrager TLR tires are amazing IMO. Good grip (you may want to try the XR3 TLR tread) and solid sidewalls as well as pretty damn lightweight.
I'd go down to the Brookvale Bike Factory (who did both my bikes) and speak to them about it. They may be pretty damn crazy about the bontrager stuff but I think to a certain extent it's warranted, it just works beautifully.

Some great tips here.