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recommendations for tyre to help with climbing
At the moment I'm running Hutchinson Bulldogs 26x2.3 on front and back, but more and more I'm finding the rear slipping or flinging out in faster technical sections when it rides up against a sloped rock...also wouldn't mind a little more grip with handling the occasional rocky uphill climb.
Any recommendations in this area?
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Maybe if you use small block tire, when it's dry, it might help you to get more grip? I bought recently a pair of these: http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/KETYMN9SM/ti...
Might be worth a shot.
I'm not convinced the tyre makes anywhere near as much difference as the rider. I ride with some guys who could climb the loosest gravel with slicks if they wanted to just through great technique while I'm busy wheel spinning away ...
They all combine to give a better result. Maxxis Larsen for climbing I find good around Sydney as they wear better than a small block 8. Schwalbe Nobby Nic are good as well but their side walls are crap on the lightweight versions. The new Maxxis Ikon I have heard is pretty good as well but I haven't personally tried them. What pressure are you running in the rear and is it tubeless?
I totally agree Fatboy!
I can ride up stuff with a totally worn out tyre and have friends that struggle with a new one.
The more skills you have the less you worry about this sort of thing.
Of course it helps but it is usually the rider.
I've found a bigger bag and a smidge less pressure seems to have helped on the hardware front, but on the steep stuff smooth pedal stroke and better core strength seems to have made the most difference.
Where I just used to spin and come to a complete stop after say spitting out a loose rock with the back wheel, I seem more able to keep the bike under me, ease my way out of it and keep going without dabbing. Best of course to avoid the rock, which comes down to line choice.
Momentum is also your friend.
I'm running about 27 in the rear, not tubeless...and I'm a super lightweight (~60kg). It already feels a bit slushy...maybe I should adjust my eating and digestion skills for better traction!
The Hutchinsons are the stock tyres on my 2006 Reign - the tread on the rear are getting there. So while I don't have the skills to do a 35 minute lap of the dam on a unicycle (who needs dual suspension and two wheels when you have technique right??
), I'm also not keen on landing in hospital again riding with bare tyres and for an extra challenge, coated with WD-40, all in the name of skill...
I'd try something a little more current, although the Larsen is similar vintage and is still an excellent tyre.
A 2.0 Larsen TT run tubeless would be a good place to start. Tubeless does help with traction.
While on the subject of Larsens, I really do not understand why Maxxis hasn't made this tread pattern in a 29er.
Random information spot
WD 40 will actually make your tyre tackier. Wipe on, let sit for 10-15 minutes, wipe off thoroughly with a clean dry rag and go ride. Keep it well away from your brakes (naturally). No I am not taking the piss - we used to use it 30 years ago as a tyre cleaner and traction aid for 1/12 scale R/C model cars before "oil of wintergreen" (the stinky stuff in Dencorub) was discovered to be better.
Funny you should mention the r/c cars, we used to use it too but on indoor foam tyres. That was about 15 years ago.
On topic, I'd recommend crossmarks. I've currently got small block eights on my 29er but they seem to wear quickly and don't have the grip in my opinion. As soon as the S.B.8s wear out I'll be getting the crossmarks. I do agree a lot of it is down technique though.
Interesting about the WD-40! I'll have to keep that in mind, although it sounds a little blasphemous to have such ability enhancing aids if you don't have the skills for it
Re post below - I don't think core strength has been a problem, I get plenty of exercise through other activities. And as others have subtly pointed out, I agree having the technique and skill helps too. Pretty confident I have the theory down after all this time with the bike, but of course its different in practice!
Thanks for the suggestions mrptl, Matt and cambo, I'll definitely have to check them out (but only if I don't get dirty looks from the pros for wanting a new tyre after 6 years)
Sunny, the way i read your post above, is that the tyres are quite a few years old. If that is the case, ditch em, now!Rubber doesnt stay grippy that long, get some nice soft tyres that dont last and what you get is grip - but if you have some tyres 1/2 a dozen years old, you may as well get as soft a compound as you like, they'll still last 2 years . Inotice tyres going off at around the 6 month mark usually for the front, the rear doesnt make it that long - the point being the front is loding grip while still having plenty of knobs.
Ardents grip real well, and if you can get em, the hans damfp in trailstar compound are supre grippy - both would make good fronts and something like nobby nicks a good rear in pacestar compound
Id recommend a crossmark in 2.25 LUST version. The bigger bag will help absorb the loose rocks on climbs and they last ages.
But as said, technique is the key to good climbing. Getting your body position in that balance point between lifting the front and spinning the rear whilst in or out of the saddle is imperative. Also learning technique to climb up steep rock step-ups etc. I'm not trying to have a dig at you or your riding, nor are the others above, but I believe technique is more important than tyre choice. Dial the technique and you'll be able to climb anything, then dial your tyre choice and you'll rocket up the hills!
Another thing to think about, is your line choice. As said rocks can bring you unstuck real quick.
Good luck.
consider mounting Crossmarks backwards so the ramps become knobs, it slightly increases rolling friction but is noticeably better on climbs
Lot of recommendations for XC tyres - since you're on a reign you are presumably not that fussed with light weight and rolling resistance. Crossmarks are not exactly the grippiest of tyres ...
FWIW I would go get something with a proper big bag and run them tubeless if you possibly can but certainly at significantly lower pressure. Hans Dampf's in the 2.35 size with trailerstar compound as recommended above would be super or something from Conti with the black chili compound (e.g. Rubber Queens) would be a great bet. I'm about 80kgs and I've run both of the above at about 22psi on the rear albeit tubeless and never flatted. Way more grip than say a 2.25 xc tyre and the Hans Dampf at least are probably still lighter than your 6 year old Hutchis anyway. You should also be able to run them at lower pressure than the XC jobbies before you have to worry about pinch flats.
If you'r not very fit like me then a good pair of MTB trail shoes with a decent rubber sole are more of a priorty.
22psi?? Really on an all mountain bike?
I run 28psi in the rear and 24psi in the front on my DH bike and have heaps of grip.
I have a reign and run a high roller on the rear with 36psi and an Ignitor on the front with 32psi.
I have never had trouble with grip and I bet I am riding the tech sections faster than most on this forum.
I have run crossmarks on the rear of my reign without issue. I am also running then front and back on my Anthem. I am very happy with them.
I ride with a few mates that are averge at best on a bike. If I had the worst rubber available and they had the best I garrentee that they would be struggling from grip first. Propper weighting and handling on a bike is far more important.
Maxxis Ardents are a terriable tyre. When you push them hard in a corner you can feel the side nobs rolling and squirming.
The OP should just go to his bike shop of choice and grab a decent tyre and then focus on bike skills.
I am in no way having a go at the OP or saying that they have to skill.
Yep, hence asking here for recommendations...thanks for the suggestions and riding pointers
Bloody hell, David. Talk it up a bit!
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ive got an 06 reign too, that came with these tyres, not a great tyre and as others have said tyre pressure and bike setup can help a lot.highrollers are great on the rear but a little slow rolling, verticals are good on rear in the loose but are soft and wear quickly,ignitors good on rear and wear quick too,i find my reign climbs really well with either of these tyres on the rear and rolls fast too, good luck
I've been running tubeless Maxxis rubber on my all mountain bikes for the last 5 years. If you are looking for help in a straight line, then the TT or the Crossmark will do the job. My preference would be the Crossmark by a small margin. However, I find that both of these tyres will lose their cornering knobs relatively quickly in Sydney's sandy conditions which might contribute to your issue where you are riding across a rock face and losing traction. For this exact reason, I started using the Ignitor on the rear (as well as the front). The more pronounced cornering knobs tend to outlast the centre tread but I haven't had a single issue with the rear end sliding out in the last 18 months or so since I started using it. There is also little rolling difference vs a Crossmark/TT.
Tyre pressure does make a difference. Your tyre pressure sounds quite low already but no amount of pressure reduction will help if your tyre is already bald. If you can't reduce it any further without getting flats, then you may consider a tubeless conversion. Kits are quite cheap online. You would then be looking for the tubeless version of the above tyres rather than the folding version.
Good luck!
Pete b, do you know vts do you?
If so can I get his autograph ?
;D
No, I don't. I suppose that's not a bad thing or I'd be ''average at best''
... and buy him some of this next time we're out at Parkes for the Back Yamma Big Foot?
The first thing I'd do if I was going to blow smoke up my own arse until it comes out my ear holes and nostrils is make sure I could spell properly too. I suppose that could just me though being an above average speller but "average at best rider"
.
If you do get his autograph Peter, make sure you run an add in the classifieds and see how much you get for it. You may be able to buy a jar of Hawkeyes finest with the proceeds
I don't get the fig jam joke x-)
Maybe we should leave it at that. VTSS is probably a decent guy but didn't articulate it properly. Everyone's friends on this forum.
Yep, the articulation needs work, but probably less work than does my riding skills.
Maybe we should hit him up for a skills clinic