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Mojo HD - Couldn't resist
Well...I went up to Kala Cycles to see the boys about the HD they had in store on a super sale, had a ride around the block and thought about it over night and the rest is history, I picked it up this afternoon and took it for a quick burn at the goat farm on the way home. Hitting Gunjin tomorrow 
The spec is a HD 140 (RP23) with 150mm floats on the front both Kashima coated, exactly what I was after for now. Rest of the build is complete X9 with Formula R0 brakes 180/160. Stans ZTR Flow Rims with Spesh GC 2.3 on the front and FT 2.2 on the rear, Set to tubeless. The only thing I think I'll be adding will be a dropper post.
The bike felt great, very smooth over the rocky terrain at the Goat Farm which was nice. Will take me a few rides to get used to a 26er wheel again along with the bike setup / style whilst tweaking the suspension. Plenty of fun times ahead though thats for sure!!
On another note for any other HD riders here in Perth, I flicked Ibis an email the other day and got a response about the approved setups for 650B on HD frames, In 140 mode you dont require any shock adjustments so it is a setup they approve of but don't provide support for. They did mention that by the end of this year they plan to have a retrofit rear triangle for the HD which will accommodate a 650B wheel though, didnt mention what travel range though... assuming it would be 130mm to be on par with the HDR but who knows.
-TJ
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I love the Ibis frame shape. This bike is sweet.
good on ya mate,what an excellent choice, easy up grade to 650b,or 160mm rear if you desire,up to 180mm front too and carbon to boot, very versatile bike indeed, covers all the latest technology too, should keep ya goin for a few more years, enjoy!!!!!
droool!!!
Always had a soft spot for the mojo's
Like Like.
I'm considering 650bs for my HD and recently came across these guys.
http://www.bikeco.com/fly.aspx?layout=events&cid...
They offer a number of solutions and have even managd to up the HDR travel to 147mm in 650 mode.
Also, plenty of info on http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/
Oh and if you look at going to 160mm mode, I REALLY suggest considering a CCDBA. It makes a great bike even better.
Enjoy!
Coming off of an All Mountain 29er, a 26" wheel was a tough sell. The 650B seems to be a good compromise.
I have a 27.5" specific fork and had to shim the rear shock about a 1/4" to preclude my 2.25 Hans Dampf tires from contacting the frame - almost the same volume as my 2.35" NN. For the 2013 Mojo HD, Ibis has a arch in the seat tube to yield a little greater clearance. Different tires would probably allow me to shim less.
I run 30-35% sag and don't notice any difference in bottom bracket height.
As an aside, I cut almost all the rebound dampening out of the shock (FOX CTD) and the bike came alive. I generally run somewhere in the middle settings and started out the same. Recommend taking the rebound a click or two from full open (faster rebound setting). Make sure the fork is balanced or it will kick you all over the place.
I have backed HSR and LSR in the shock to almost fully open. The suppleness of the rear end is remarkable!
What is the fork you are running? I've given thought to running just a 27.7" front wheel with standard in the rear.
Very nice.
I went for a black 160mm about a year ago, fro, KC too.
Awesome bike, tough as hell.
Get a dropper post, btw.
I still laugh at the unnamed Giant dealer I went to for some bits...
"Yeah, Mojo. Good bikes. Frame is a little flexy tho"
What a day yesterday was up at Gungin
Ended up riding for 3.5 hrs yesterday, just didn't want to get off until my legs said enough was enough...
As expected this bike just flew down the new trails, I'm glad i went with this amount of travel over going for the full 160mm at this stage. I did land a little heavy off a couple of drops / jumps yesterday but still had 15 - 20mm of travel to use according to the rubber rings when I got to the bottom of Alchemy.
ATM I have set the rebound 1/2 way for both front and rear which I'll tweak as I get a few more rides under the belt, if anything it just feels a little firm at this stage but I want to get used to the feel of the bike a lot more before I start playing around with settings.
What I was really surprised with yesterday is how well the bike climbed, was expecting it to be a nightmare coming off my 29er epic. Adding a dropper post is a definite which will make it that much easier. The front didn't want to pop up at all, the tight switchbacks up scorpion were easy, Going up Rocky will be different story but I'd prefer a challenge going up the hill knowing going down I'll have more fun.
Matt P - You asking me? If not I'll answer anyway... I currently have a Fox 32 Float 150mm FIT fork, I'll be considering 650B at a later stage, but I'm happy to be back on a 26" wheel for now. For longer endurance rides where a bigger wheeled bike will be better I'll use my Epic.
Anyone running a 1x10 on their AM rig and can easily handle the climbs around Perth? Fitness has a lot to do with this also though. This is another idea floating around the head.
-TJ.
Im running a Saint 1x10 on my mojo (32x 11-36)
Also converted my Trance to 1x10 before that.
If ur going to blast down fire trails and can't spin, a 32 front may bit short, but for me that ratio is great on even the steepest climbs.
The DW link suspension is great for climbing, but it does need the right size front ring to tighten it up properly. I believe Ibis recommends a 32-38ish. As for climbing rocky etc, I find even on 160mm, the rear 'locks up' enough with good pedal force, that I leave the pro pedal setting off. It just gets too firm to absorb rocks otherwise. I'll only use the "climb" position on smooth climbs like Drago etc.
Using a Talas 120?-160 fork really helps get the front nice and tight. I usually only extend to 160 for Loco etc.
The HD can also be used as a 140mm rear if you swap the "chips", but I tend to use the full 160mm already.
I also have 1x10.
I running a 33t but might have a go with the 35t. Cassette is 11-36. Climbing so far is fine but I know I would run out of gears on a couple of the longer descents at Stromlo. A bigger ring would also be good for Thredbo DH and flow tracks.
I went with the 2014 fox 34 float 160 but I've run 650 front only, with a fox 36 160 without a problem
Looking closer at changing to a 1x10 setup, Just realized my X9 crankset is a 120 BCD, so I think the smallest I can go is a 36T... I think. Anyone know if you can just replace the 'Spider arm'(correct term??) on the crank to be smaller? or will I need to get a full new crank set to enable me to have a 32 - 34T ring up front?
On a different note, anyone had experience with a 'General Lee' cassette adapter?
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derai...
36t would be too long.
Not familiar with Sram, but i've never seen a spider (yes, correct term) that can be replaced separately from the crankset.
On my Trance (XT 3x10) I just removed the outside chainrings, FD, and lever. You will need a RD with a clutch or chain guide too.
On my dad's bike (2x10), I removed the FD, lever, left the big ring on as a bash guard, and got him a short cage Zee RD with clutch.
The Mojo was built from scratch and used a Saint crankset and RD. If I was doing it again, I would do the same.
Yes you can get replacement 104 spiders for the x9 (just check the years are right)
http://northshorebillet.com/shop/sram-x0-104-bcd...
http://www.jensonusa.com/Sram-X9-GXP-Spider
I run a 36t 1x9 and find myself running out of gears at times, I've had a 34t sitting in the box for a year but just never felt the need to fit it.
The General Lee looks pretty interesting, I might consider that as an alternative to X01 and avoid new wheels etc etc
Got one on the way - hopefully here this week - will let you know how it pans out. Though will be using it on a 2*10 29r
Sweet as, Definitely keen on changing to a 1x10 setup if I can get the right gearing ratio, the process isn't too complex and issue free gear changing.
Where did you order yours from?
This goes out to fellow Mojo Owners...
Have any of you considered or used this seat post and drilled out the bottom water bottle mount for the cable to be routed through?
I'm following this thread very seriously, because I want a Mojo HD, yknow very seriously,. Have done for a while.
Just want it.!
Not sure what 'this' seat post is, but im assuming its an internal cable?
I wouldn't be keen on drilling out the cage mount. Not fussed about weakening anything, but A) The cable will need quite a curve to prevent it from kinking, B) You wont be able to run a down tube protector which i find essential and C) You only have room for 2 cables on the down tube which are both taken with the RD and rear brake.
Run it as Ibis suggest, or get a seat post without a cable. Thats what i've done. With a 1x10 I only have two items bolted on the bars. Very neat and tidy.
If ur going 1x and 32t or smaller, I have an unused chain guide for the Mojo. Didn't end up using it as my chain guide was too big. Didn't order a larger size as I almost never drop a chain.
Enjoy the bike. They are awesome.
I held the black n lime HDR frame that Tim has hanging up briefly last weekend then quickly handed it back before some sort of relationship started.......
A very nice frame, I'd probably go for an X Fusion Sweep DLA fork myself with full XT drivetrain, Hope/Stans Hoops & Hope brakes (Not as good value as Shimano but I prefer the feel).
Few things...
Reverb Stealth, Yes it has an internal cable, comes out the bottom of the seat post so it can be routed though the frame. The 'cable kink' is an issue as you mentioned. But heaps of people have done this from what I can see on MTBR, just haven't been able to find as many pics of it at this stage to see how neat it is. Since the cable wont be able to run inside the protector I am planning on running in the middle of the 2 housings which will keep it pretty protected I would think, I'll plastic weld some clips on it to hold it in place.
Down tube Guard, did you order yours from Ibis?
You have a Crank Brothers post correct? one with the lever under the nose of the seat? How does this go? Do you find it quite easy to adjust on the fly and the lever doesn't get caught on pants or anything?
When I change to 1x10 I don't want any cables on the top tube to keep it nice and clean. For the front ring I will probably run a Wolftooth components wide / Narrow ring. a lot of people fun these with no guide at all.
Yes, I'm loving the HD so far
Bring on Lovin Shovels!!
-TJ
Ordered frame and guard from Kalamunda Cycles. Unless they have stock there is usually a lengthy wait.
Yeah, I've got the CB post with the lever under. It's my 2nd such post (first got sold with my previous bike), and I've had zero issues with them, but a fair amount of people haven't been so lucky. The lever doesn't interfere with anything. Having said that, I've never ridden in clown pants
The Perth trails seem to be either up or down. For me, there are no difficult undulating trails that NEED constant adjustment. For example I'll drop it at the top of Gunjin regardless of which trail I take, If i go muffin tops i'll raise it again after I cross the munda biddi. I won't normally touch it again until the last section of slippery when dry. Different riders like to change it more often.
Interesting look at the Woolftooth chainring. Very similar to SRAM's XX1 (1x11). Might have to get one. Pity they don't come in gold.