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Tubless
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Ok read a bit but still can't find out what I need to go tubless
I have tubless ready rims bontragers and ust tyres maxis cross mark and maxis ignitor so what else do I need I think it just sealant and the valve stems
Any info would be great as everything I seem to read is all about conversion with non tubles rims
Thanks in advance
Duncan
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Hey Duncan
Bontrager tubeless ready rims are designed around needing rim tape, valve stems and sealant, along with an appropriate tyre. Depending on the model of rim you may need a particular rim tape as some of there rims have an asymmetrical internal rim beds. It is a bit confusing however as not all of their rims with off centre spoke beds are asymmetrical internally. I have 2013 26" Rhythm comp wheels, which are symmetrical internally, and I went with the bontrager rim tape and value stem and it worked a treat. I have read forum posts of people using non bontrager tape and values with no problems. Hope this helps.
Chris
Duncan
I went tubeless about 18 months ago and found the videos on Stan's No Tubes web site very helpful. Even had the iPad in the garage whilst i was doing the conversions. I did go Stans using their conversion kit, but they all seem to be fairly similar.
http://www.notubes.com/helpcenter.aspx?video=3
There is also a thread on this site about inflating them
http://perthmtb.asn.au/node/43502
I managed to do mine with a floor/track pump, but I think I was lucky.
I have Mavic TN719 rims and put on an Ardent (F) and Crossmark ( r ) and had slightly more hassle with the Crossmark than the Ardent. Nothing too major just a bit of swearing and sweating to get the bead to seat.
if you need rim tape 1" gorilla tape works well. Dont use gaffa tape as it gets brittle as it ages.
Strips and valves will be around $55 from a Trek store and fit your rims perfectly. They can be found for around $30 online (Evans Cycles maybe?).
You just need to make sure you get the right strip - either symmetrical or asymmetrical; look them up on the Trek website.
I buy the 1L bottles of Stans online and top the tyres up by removing the valve core occasionally - Stans will form a blob of dry sealant that will need to be removed now and then.
Thanks guys sounds like of to the trek shop I go will try it out on my fun bike first then maybe the race bike hope that with lower tyre pressures to get more grip on the front end bring back winter pea gravel sucks
If you go to bunnings you can get a compressor pretty cheaply and it makes all the difference to get it done very quickly and easily. I wouldn't do it without it ... (but I am the worlds worst bike mechanic (as certified by many friends))
A friend has one of these and it works really well (you can get cheaper ones)
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-10l-1100w-1-5hp...
$199? Pffft
See PICS ghetto compressor !! & CHEAP Air compressor for seading tubeless converting tyres
I've never needed an air compressor, Yrack stand pump has always worked for me although I have worked up a sweat a few times.
I tried going tubless for a while, but then the wife wouldn't let me into the bedroom any more, so I had to revert to having a tub every now and then....
Sorry, couldn't resist...
Reading all the topics about setting up tubeless made curious to see if I could do it. I finally pulled the digit out and changed my rear tyre over. Front was done by bike shop.
I have Mavic SLR(tubeless ready) wheels and the rear tyre is to be a Maxxis Crossmark UST. My wheels came with the appropriate valve stem as part of the setup.
1. Remove old Maxxis Ikon and tube.
2. Installed new valve stem and associated bits.
3. Removed valve core.
4. Installed new Maxxis Crossmark.
5. Attached track pump and started pumping. Tyre inflated and beaded first go.
6. Remove track pump and let tyre deflate.
7. Add appropriate sealant via valve
8. Re-install valve core.
9. Re-inflate tyre to maximum pressure to allow to seal and bead properly
10. Job done - beer o'clock
Now I don't know if I was lucky or because I had bought the right components but it worked fine with a track pump. I'll stick with I bought the right gear
My few cents worth.
Cheers
Evan
On the topic of compressors vs. pumps.
When I converted, I had a standard 150psi track pump and it worked most of the time, but sometimes (like if the tyre/rim was dirty) I'd need to head over to the servo to use their compressor....
Then I got a Lezyne Floor Drive (link). Smaller, cheaper, quieter than a compressor and it fits in my car!
Highly recommended.
Where did you buy it?
You certainly made life easier for yourself with UST tyres and proper tubeless rims, that's the best case scenario and is generally very easy
In Melbs at (iridebikes.com.au). If you give them a ring I'm sure they'd help you out.
You might be able to find a dealer up here too.
So with havering tubless ready rims do I need just a valve to suit my rims like the ones on the stans web site or rim tape with a valve bonded into it
Not all Rim/Tyre combos will go up with a floor pump - even Tubeless specific rims. As Rob said the Ghetto compressor with an old plastic coke bottle is the go. We can change our tubeless tyres now almost as quickly as a regular tubed tyre.
Floor Dirt Drive is a high volume (low pressure) pump designed to do tubeless tyres.
I'm using stans rims with non-UST / Tubeless tyres (and heaps of sealant).
Sometimes I need to remove the core, but I haven't had a use a compressor since making the switch...although sometimes I get more sweaty than other times.
IMHO if you have proper tubeless rims I would use the valves designed for those rims.
Evan