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Frame Skin - Worth the money?
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Hi,
I'm looking at getting a frame skin for my Specialized Epic Carbon from Frameskin (www.frameskin.com). Before I shell out the $100 I'd like to know if anyone has tried them (or another brand), and are they worth the money, and do they provde protection rock scraprs, falls etc?
thks
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I think so. Put them on my last 2 bikes.
Much easier when u just have the frame. Applying them is the tricky part. Done properly they will never peel off. Apart from a few really tight curves on the rear triangle, mine are still perfectly attached after a year.
Also had them on my last two bikes.
I went for the thicker version on my current bike and have to be honest, it was a PITA to fit some sections. But don't let that put you off.
Protecting the frame with tough, clear, sticky stuff is a must.
However, IMHO this product is a bit exy. Go to a local motorbike/car parts store and pick up some very similar film that they say is for covering headlights. Works perfectly to protect a bike frame too though. I've done countless bikes with $20 worth I picked up years ago.
Dicko had his Epic done by them. Personally I would get them to fit it. I just did my cranks and that was fidly enough
I did my Giant Trance two years ago, two days later a bike in the rack next to mine must have had it's handle bars swing around and the brake lever put a 3 inch graze along the top tube into the Frameskin, given how tough the stuff is, would have meant a deep gouge in the paint for sure. I still see that mark and I'm glad I spent the money and time to install it. Also stops lots of pea gravel strikes on the down tube as you can see the chips in the paint not covered by the tape.
I went to Super Cheap auto and 2 headlight films were $45.00 I havent been back to get it yet but the one that suits the bike would be more time consuming tho instead of trying to cut out all the different shapes to suit .
A question- the idea is to protect a frame. So when you sell the bike it looks good. Does that mean that you take the skin off sometime in the future?
A pov student in NZ I always peeled it off before selling. Used to get paid more than gear was worth because it still looked good.
Haven't bothered with my bikes recently as have been finding mechanically mint scratched second hand bikes barely been ridden that the newbie is getting rid of because mountain biking was harder than they thought.
Scratches can work for you both ways.
Hi - for what its worth, I got the Frameskin kit from the online store and fitted it myself. I am a real stickler for having a clean, beautiful bike. In terms of difficulty, it wasnt that bad at all. I opened a beer, filled a small bowl with warm soapy water, and set about one rainy evening in the garage.
To do the whole bike I reckon it was an hour of my time - and worth every minute.
The level of detail that Frameskin (Alan) have gone to is pretty incredible. The shapes are very detailed, are specific to the correct side of the bike, the size of the bike and also have little cut-outs for all bolt holes, pivot points etc.
Carbon frames are tougher than most people realise, but the Frameskin gives you enough comfort that if you do lay it down - most areas are covered and wont scratch.
For $100 I would say its worth while - given that really its only $50 most than some other generic protective tape.
Fitting it yourself though - the key is patience, time and watch the instructional video. Warm soapy water - and all will be fine....
I had a Matte carbon frame (looked sweet az) put frame skins on it and it turned the matte to gloss!
Not sure if it was something I did wrong, or if that's just what happens...
As in it changed the appearance because the skin was gloss or did it acually change the finish underneath once you removed them? I notice they are available in matte now given the number of matte frames around
I think it something to do with the combo of the liquid used to fit the tape and it potentially smoothing the matte appearance into a gloss appearance.
I've seem it happen in homes too. One of the window tinters tried to apply a tint over some frosted privacy glass in a bathroom. Net result was that it turned completely see through!
Sorry, thread hijack!
FWIW I always frame tape the parts of the bike that my Thule 591 clamps to,
There is a version for matte finished bikes. I think you just need to specify it.
It looks very good.
If you look at the photos of matte frameskin kits on the website you will see how close it matches the frame finish. Pivot Mach 429, Cannondale Supersix EVO, SWorks Fate, Specialized Enduro Expert are good examples.
FILM TYPES
Frameskin offer three film technologies:
Premium Gloss thin and Ultra matte are thinner films compared to our standard gloss, but being made of a premium grade urethane they are very resilient at resisting abrasion and chipping. Premium Gloss thin is virtually invisible on the frame and ultra matte film looks fantastic on matte finish carbon frames. Both films are designed to protect paint work for high end automobiles. If I had a Merc, Audi or Beemer i'd put this film on the bonnet.
The standard gloss is a very good product, but being thicker (340 micron) is not as conformable to complex curves apparent on some bikes. Nearly all kits I have developed were using this film initially, then I introduced the thinner films. I am still selling mostly standard gloss kits only because it is the more established product, and I can sell it cheaper (the premium gloss and matte films are very expensive as raw material to buy). This is changing though, I have noticed strong interest in matte film, and increasing interest in Premium gloss. I believe at some point these films will outstrip standard gloss eventually.
Thickness
Premium Thin and Ultra Matte are almost half as thick as the standard gloss film, so the standard material will edge out the thin slightly for strength due to its thickness. It is still hard to see, but is more visible than the ultra thin because the edge is easier to see.
Removal of film
My installation instructions outline the process for removal of film. Here is an excerpt.
Removal: If you wish to remove or replace the decals at some point in the future, do not just yank them off. Doing so can remove clear coat or paint.
Warm the decal with a hair dryer as this softens the adhesive. Use your fingernail to lift an edge and slowly peel the decal off. Take care, and take your time.
Done correctly, no adhesive residue should remain behind and the frame will be clean.
Note: Touch up paint under the decal may come off with the adhesive.