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(N-1)+1= Really happy!
So on the same day I sold my reign X1 and picked up this bad boy. First impressions are that its amazing. It pedals sooo well with the DHX 5. On that note though, the first thing to strike me is how high the gearing is. Even though its a Dh bike, I'd really like to have a granny gear just for pottering about in at the bottom of runs. Its also reasonably heavy. The Fox 40s are HUGE! and all in al it just soaks up everything. Can't wait to get it on the trails although that won't be for a while because Im away for two weeks army.
Enjoy.
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Sweet ride Liam. Bruce will be very jealous, yes? I will join you on my Six soon around the traps. Have fun on it mate.
It is a thing of beauty mate, nice one.
Hope you fix that saddle before hitting the dirt though!
especially love the matching wheel and frame colour... and the subtle BA sticker... How much does it weigh? 28 kgs!?!
Just a warning though, be careful with the i-beam seat/seat post... i had one and the seat ripped straight out of the post, stripping the seat of the little grippy things that help it stay in place...
Never the same after that, always slipping about and moving around... i had to toss it after 6 months - with the seat upper in perfect condition!
Grrr...
Cheers,
Lance.
awesome bike dude! i highly reccomend a smaller front chainring if you want to do some more access riding, i dropped down to a 32tooth single front on the session, and it makes a world of difference, is just like a cannondale xc bike, except it wont brake and doesnt suck
nah but seriously i ride everywhere now, uphill, urban, bmx, everything, its a world apart from the 40 plus i would guess you have on the front? and i just dropped from a 38 tooth..incidently if you want an e-13 38 toother, p.m. me
need to organise that awaba trip eh! jealous of that fox 40 it looks the bomb, well done!
Awesome bike but mine is waaaay better. Giant Yukon FX with only 4" travel. Yeeeeeeewww!
yeah it is on the heavy side compared to the x1. There is the triangle of buying bike parts where you can have any two of cheap, light and strong. If i upgrade bit by bit as things either break or i get more money, ill lighten down some of the bulkier items whilst maintaining strength.
Im definitely going to look into the new front cog option though.
What sort of kit would people be recommending down the line thats as strong and lighter than what I've got? Some dude on farkin got his down to the 18kg mark but not sure how strong everything was.
Im not even sure if being light is going to make that much difference as I have more a plowing style than a flicking round the corners style anyway.
eh light bikes are for tards and chodes
enjoy your unstoppable power machine and know you can plow over just about dam well anything..personally i say strength to plowability to just overall fun wins out over weight and uphill velocity, but each to his own..that is a seriously well chosen bike imho for todays market..
if you really do want to lighten things up, fox 40's are not the best way to go! but man they are sweet, i seriously think if you chuck a small front chainring on the front weight will become far less an issue cause u will be able to tackle some cross country rides etc too if albeit a bit slower and sweatier! it is a DH bike overall though and really designed with strength superseeding weight by a landslide..i belive the frame alone is like 12-13lbs+? u get used to weight anyhoo, and youll certainly appreciate the stability flying down ourimbah and such like at silly speeds!
yeah, well I have zero money now anyways. I will definitely look into the chainring thing. Would it not be better to change the highest rear cog so that the others are all perfect for flying dh and I just have this random really low gear for xc?
"Hope you fix that saddle before hitting the dirt though!"
Rob, it's a DH bike! Only bludgers sit down on a DH bike. The saddle is for gripping between the legs to help steer and so the angle is not so important.
If anything I like having it slanting back so that I can slide off the back in the steep stuff.... not that I was sitting down in the first place but you get the picture.
Would be to go for a roadie mech and cassette, though given you're a bit up in the air about gearing anyway maybe not... and given it's a single ring front (I think?) that'd limit you in what you could ride.
Issa top looking bike too, ditto the comment above about the matching rims, is that a Mavic sticker on them?
Yes it is a mavic sticker and I think it already has road gears on the back. It is a single up the front with chain guide etc to stop it falling off on those bumpy decents. Im just thinking of lowering the gearing a bit but I'll ride it a bit as. It appears that the general rule of thumb is if your not using all your gears, its time to adjust so you do. Only time will tell, its just one of the first things I noticed about how high the gear is coming off my X1
ah i see your cassette is a race cassette is it? if you want lots of ridability get yourself a 11-34 tooth rear cassette and an under 40 tooth front chainring, under 38 would be better again..failing that get your legs pumping and building up! but a nice say 32 tooth front (not if you want to hit super high race DH speeds mind you, youll need 36 minimum if you want to flat out sprint dh speed of 70kph+!) paired with a 11-34 on the rear will make for a far more "freeride" setup ie uphills not so bad..yeh sweet rims too ditto to that! all about what setup you want though, nice smooth minor gear variations on the way down with little room for going up, or slightly more noticable transitions between gears and lower top speed peddling ability and more room to go up and around as well...
Yeah i think id rather have a larger range and noticeable transitions. Its not like you ever do a long slog of pedaling that you want to be able to find the precisely perfect gear ratio for. You want, really slow, medium and fast gears! As I said, Im just gonna ride it and see. For example. I might decide that I never use the top gear in which case i would drop the front chain ring down teeth sizes and move my entire range a bit down. Or if I find that I do use top gear and that I still want a potter around gear for then a more widely space set of rear rings would do the job better. Time will tell. Im gonna go to the local park that has a few little lines this arvo for just a muck around.
Im really keen to hit up AWABA and OF and ourimbah next semester as well as a city ride. (do some stair gaps and the like)
yeh i found riding around a bit, i just wanted to be able to drop down one or 2 more gears going up and doing xc ish stuff and I rarely used the smallest rear cog so my personal ratio was out for what i wanted with a 38toother, dropping to a 32 i now rarely use the biggest rear cog (but it is handy riding say home from an urban when riding up super steep hills etc.) and when going fast i usually sit in the 2nd smallest (bmx track etc) am yet to run it on a full dh run but so far ive not needed to go faster than being in the smallest, its still super fast..so i guess its a better suited setup now to my kind of riding..
yeh my baby is due tomorrow
so in a good month or so im keen for ourimbah or awaba, well have to get the crew together! if you want to do an urban i go about 3 times a week at the moment, specifically the uni's etc on sat or sun, lee (gilbo) and i hit an urban yesterday actually was great fun, there are some interesting stairs and drops in the area..
I still ride my DH bike to the top of Hassans Walls with a 38t front ring and 11-32 cassette. Yep it hurts on anything steeper but anything smaller than 36t will severely limit the speed on the descent.
Road cassettes are good for racing but are a bit limiting for general purpose DH riding
Well, of course I was joking, but all the same... the angle looks a bit pointy uppy. Wouldn't want you to crash and find that pointy uppy saddle somewhere it wasn't welcome. Ewwwwww!
ive just finished buying, fitting and testing a couple of different front rings on the atomik
and yesi settled on the 32 on the front
i find it nicer to potter about on then say a 38 which has limited ridabilty back up the hill
the 32 seems to do everything
well for me any way
nice bike too man
DH porn definatley
Kurt
the idea behind the pointy upy saddle on a dh bike is that dh bikes tend to go down hills therefore the saddle ends up more level cause the bike is pointed down most of the time..
yeh 32 is good for me like i said if your flat out sprinting dh race style, 32 might not be enough for you, but personally i never need to go faster than smallest cog with 32 up front..maybe thredbo or something, im not a racer though.. each to his own, id rather have more ridability then higher top speed ..my 2 cents anyhoo
cool what ever works for you is good.
But you guys should have ridden the old State mine track you use to spin out on a 40/11 a quarter of the way down the fast section:)
Of course a 40t made riding up very hard. Only did it once.
i wish i couldve done the mine track! i still need to get over that side of the world to see the other things on offer such as lisdale!
Lovely steed Liam, you lucky man. Don't worry about the weight, just do some squats and deadlifts and have an enourmous arse that tears your spandex with it's power. What a movie that was.
I don't know about this small chain ring/tiny ratio business. Maybe try the retro look and get a 72 toother going. They are sexy. I also noticed your rear wheel looks very UNlike a Tioga Disk Drive, this is somewhat disappointing. Last but not least, those riser bars that the kids run these days do nothing for your aerodynamic capabilities....what you need are some drop bars.
These things aside, I would love to ride your bike and look forward to touching it sometime in the future.
On my yakuza I run a 36t chainring, with a 12-23 road cassete. I find it just about perfect on tracks like ourimbah with the long flat sections. Its also good on the tight sections up at Awaba as you have the ability to spin reasonably quick out of corners etc. As for top end gearing going down the steep bits, just stay of the brakes and pump everywhere you can, you'll end up going just as fast as most people in the straights.
The glory frame is quite tanky so it will never be a super light DH bike. If you are going to upgrade just wait until parts break, it always will when riding downhill, then you can pick lighter components to replace the broken bits with.