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tubeless wheels 20mm axle
I'm looking to upgrade my wheels to something a bit ligher (than Sun Singletracks) and tubeless.
only problem is that the front wheel has to be 20mm thru-axle compatible.
I want to spend around $600, which can be pushed up for the right wheelset.
I've looked at shimano XTs, but i haven't really heard much about them
any ideas, experiences, etc?
Cheers
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How much do these Sun wheels weigh? And what is your definition of 'light'?
I'm happy as with the Mavic 819 on Hope Pro II on the Yeti. They are around 1900g built with DT Champion spokes so wouldn't call them light. You can loose 40g a wheel by using Super Comp spokes. Another 30g can be lost by going Revolution (thus 1760g the set) but these are recommended for XC work only.
The Pro II hubs are top - you can convert between 9mm/QR15mm/20mm very easily.
The above should be within your budget, built and shipped from CRC.
I did look at DT 4.2 rims but when you put a tubeless kit in there same weight as the Mavic 819 so why bother with a conversion when you get get true UST?
Aside from that, you can get something a bit more 'exotic' from Greg at TWE. I have a 1640g set of his wheels on the Rush and they have stood up well. Slightly over your budget but give him a call and see what he can do - great wheel builder and will mix and match and rim/hub combo you want. Only complaint I have about these are they are a converted set so are a pain in the ass to air up initially after tire changes. Greg keeps telling me to change the rim tape but I'm too lazy
Got the same set up from CRC for 259 pounds 8 months ago. Excellent wheelset that's light enough, durable and true tubeless.
I like the look of the Pro II XM819 combo.
what tyres are you using? Can you use non-tubeless tyres without tubes on a tubeless wheel, or do i have to use a UST tyre
I run a High Roller on the rear and a Nevegal on the front, both tubeless but you can run tubes as well. Always worth keeping a tube in your pack just in case of major sidewall tear etc on the trail. So far though, in 9 months not one flat (touch wood).
Yeah - I started with some UST Nevegal 2.1 but saw the error of my ways and now have a Minnion front and Highroller rear. Not that there was anything wrong with the Nevegal - awesome tires (well - aside from quiet a lot of wear with the rear), just they were a bit skinny for that setup.
Both the Minnion and Highroller are wire bead, non-tubeless. Fill 'em with stans and away you go
Here's a tip for you if you choose the Pro 2 hubs.
Get the option of 'Saint' in the rear hub. Your hub will now be 10 mm through in the rear, yet doesn't require any Shimano Saint parts to use. Then purchase a DT Swiss RWS 10 mm rear axle. This works like a QR yet ratchets closed instead of flipping closed with a lever.
This works on any regular QR frame except new type Trek frames using the ABP suspension.
The result is a tougher and stiffer interface between hub and frame, with all the convenience of QR.
What is the advantage of getting the "saint" option and spending another $70 on the DT RWS, when i can get the normal 10mm option for an extra $18 which comes with the bolts??
Can a 10mm bolt up axle fit a normal QR bike?
Problem with CRC is there hardly ever seem to have in stock at the same time hope hubs + QR + XM819
I've been waiting for 2 months!
By the way, beware there are several models of XT hubs. The M756 are cheap but heavy, you'd be looking at the M770
Tom
Mate, what's normal about it? The 10mm option is bolt on and not bolt through so are therefore very different to each other. Furthermore, how many bolt on hubs are around? I can only think of two,( without really trying ). Everything is either QR or bolt through.
That said, the bolt on interface is good and certainly better than QR. Bolt through is even better, simpler and a whole lot safer, so that's why you'd buy it and spend the $70 on the RWS.
I should probably answer your question about the advantages. The bolt in is exacly that, two threaded bolts that screw into a thread, one on each side. The RWS acts much like a skewer. Sure, there is a thread on one side just like a regular QR where the end screws on yet it's unlikely to be damaged, and the RWS only has to be loosened a little bit to get the wheel out.
Threading those two bolts into a thread inside the hub is asking for trouble as the hub ages, grit gets in there, thread wears or a bolt is lost or worse, a cross thread.
I have plenty of experience with Hope hubs in the Saint format and the RWS axles and it works a treat. I've met plenty of people who refuse to use Hope products simply because they broke a bolt. This is not Hopes' fault yet it is tricky to tell exactly how tight is correct. A bolt through doesn't have this problem. You could always use any other brand/type of 10 mm through axle if you really want to.
thanks very much for the explanation. I was wondering what would happen when the bolt on threads on the hub wore out. i now understand why bolt thru is way better.
Back to the original question: are there any other rim/hub combos that people can recommend
Ive got mavic crossmax sx. they rock out big time. But they cost an arm and i think a leg too. Perhaps there are some second hand slr's on ebay?
You love pimping your Crossmax, eh Dazz?
(jks mate!).
But I have to agree with a few people here. The Hope ProII's are an awesome hub, and can be changed to pretty much any axle configuration you want. I have the Hope's on my Trance, and they're a really nice hub. Plus with the bonus that the rear hub has a really nice clicking sound that lets anyone of the trail know that you're up behind them - all you have to do it stop pedaling for a revolution!
Not too pricey from CRC. A little more than the XTRs I was looking at initially, but the hope are much more user friendly as far as servicing, axle changing, etc. I bought some Mavic XM819's as well, and had them built up here in Aus. Best wheel combo I've owned. Have taken some abuse (for an XC rig) and are still true as a saint
.
(blush) yup i love my wheels.
the best combination to have the Hope Pro II with the Mavic XM819? I am about to order a new set of wheels from CRC and was reading through this forum. I like to idea of the saint option at the back. I already have the DT RWS system in the front but would love to get it in the back as well.
One other question...has anyone changed the Hope Pro II QR to work with the DT Swiss RWS system in the front? Apparently you need to drill out the QR inserts on the Hope Pro II.
Any advise would be well appreciated.
Bart
after much deliberation, i took the plunge and ordered a set of Mavic XM819s on hope proII hubs when CRC had the 10% off everything offer.
Can't wait for them to arrive!!!
I want to run them tubeless. I bought tubeless valves. I dont want to use heavy UST tyres. should i use sealant in them? if so, how much should i use?
probably going to put a nevegal 2.35 rear, advantage 2.4 front (if that makes any difference)
Ah... you didn't need to order those valves as the 819s will come with a set. Never mind - at least you have spares now which is no bad thing!
Read Whisperer's blog about tubeless, very useful:
http://nobmob.com/node/6453
Personally I've found that 'real' UST tires seal up better than non-UST. The latter will do it, just more hassle. I use sealant (Stans) in both. To me it's not about weight, but the lack of punctures, especially pinch flats.
The Nevegal will probably wear quickly on the back. Least mine did. Love it on the front though and lasts longer there
I just got a new set of wheels off Rotorburn, DT swiss EX 5.1D's on Pro2 hubs (20mm front and 135 QR).
The hubs are awesome! My set came in at just under 1900g (no rotors or cassette). Pretty decent for an AM wheel set. Just got to convert to tubeless now.