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Pedals - What do you use?


muvro's picture

By muvro - Posted on 17 July 2009

After opinions on pedals.

I currently run a set of VP clipless pedals that also have a platform. They are quite heavy (I think I weighed them at 564g :0 ) and I want to upgrade. If I'm going to spend the money, I want to get something decent and light.

XT $132 and 352g. Probably my first choice, as I'm a bit of a shimano whore.

XTR $195 and 325g. Not sure if the extra expence validates the 27g saving.

Look Quartz Carbon $149 and 230g. These look the business and are light as hell. Anyone used these? If so, any pro's or con's? For the money these could be a goer. I love the look of them and having a fetish for carbon could get this one over the line. If they have good feedback. haha

Time XS ATAC $179 and 334g

Time XS Carbon ATAC $239 and 322g (not sure if $50 justifies 12g??)

Time ROC ATAC for $139 and 384g

Xpedo Titanium, I haven't heard of this brand, $129 and 260g. But hesitant as I haven't heard of them before.

Titanium 2ti Eggbeater $277 and 218g. Probably too dear for me, but possible go the cheaper stanard ones for $139 and 266g.

Or if there are any other suggestions out there.

I've got to start putting my bike on a diet, so this is where I'm going to start. Next will be tyre combo.

Cheers again,

Tark Smiling

Tags
Nick R's picture
Chris S's picture

I changed from the lower entry level (can't remember the model number, but the ones that usually come stock on bikes) to the XTR's about a year ago.

My first impression’s were how much easier they were to get in and out of, but were much more secure when actually pedaling, they’re also quite a bit lighter than old stock ones and the overall quality was brilliant.

However after a few months of riding and one too many rock hits, one of them started to creak a bit. I managed to strip, clean, rebuild and got it working again but it's not quite as smooth as it was before. There still going ok to date and fingers crossed there keep go for a bit longer.

I think my point is, if you're going to ride rocky technical terrain, and lets face it where around Sydney is not like that, is it worth spending all that money for probably a slightly better product that's probably not going to last any longer on the harsh Sydney terrain.

I'll be saving a few $$$$ when these give up and I’ll go for the XT's next time.

Buck's picture

Time ATAC XS for me. Found it works better in muddy conditions than the Shimano's I had previously. Bit on the pricey side though.

muvro's picture

Those Xpedo's on T7 look like a bargain. Light too.

The only thing is the little adjuster knob is right in harms way.... Might take a bash or two...

Morgan's picture

although I was looking at the LOOK pedals too as they look cool and have similar simple spring mechanism....Self clean, they're less prone to clog up and stop working when you get muck in them than the more complex mechanisms like Shimano, light and enough body to help you out if you mis-clip.

Look at your current pedals - if the body is scuffed 'coz you're scraping them on rocks, don't bother with carbon.

muvro's picture

Yeah, good call Morgan. I do bash my pedals a bit when climbing step ups etc. That get's rid of the carbon pedals...

Damn... The fetish will have to be satisfied with headset spacers... haha

I've never really had a problem in my current pedals with clog up etc. I can't actually remember any time that I've had a problem. I do remember my old Time cleats when I used to road race, always clogged up. The old coppery brass hook at the fron would always catch mud/clay or something and would never let the rear catch engage.

Slowpup's picture

I run eggbeaters. They take a little getting used to the clip in action. You can't stab your foot across the pedal like a Shimano, you have to roll the pedal to engage.

Quick disengagement when you want to, really positive retention (i've never inadvertently clipped out), and they never clog with mud. No adjusters to break, jam or rust, or perform surgery on your shins.

The earlier models with the push in end cap are a bit prone to getting water inside, but the newer ones with screw in end cap are much better. Greasing every so often with the supplied tool and a needle gun takes 2 minutes and keeps them free and smooth.

I just stripped, cleaned, greased and reassembled my early SL's this afternoon in less than 5 minutes. Bearing and bush replacement takes about 10 minutes per pedal, and costs $40 a set. I think the same bearing kit does the whole range. Chain reaction also sell a full range of spares and upgrade bits like Ti spindles and wings etc. so they are cheap to keep running.

The bearings are not sealed, but shielded, so you do need to keep the grease up to them. The new design grease port flushes the grit, water and old grease out through the bush and the spindle side seal. A few drops of chain lube on the springs/wings every time you clean the bike keeps the action smooth and quiet.

Oh, and if you like using your pedals to climb rocks (like I seem to), they are almost indestructible (well the carbon steel or stainless ones.... 4Ti might be a waste for rock grinding)

And the best bit...stops your mate asking for a ride of your new bike.......... Oh, wait that's why he just changed to eggbeaters........

muvro's picture

Thanks for the feedback Slowpup.

So engagment is pretty much a insert the front of the clip and then click the rear in? (probably the best way I can describe my thoughts. haha)

THat's how I insert into pedals anyway. Probably force of habit from my old road pedals.

Cheers

Tark Smiling

cambowambo's picture

I'll second the eggbeaters.

They cannot be beaten for ease of clip-in (once you get the "roll-stab" working), float, release (if you really have to), and lack of weight.

You'll need shoes with stiff soles to ride them for any length of time.

But IMHO it is worth buying the right shoes for these pedals.

Slowpup's picture

Like cambowambo said, it is more of a roll stab, than a slide stab. As there isn't anything flat to slide against, you almost roll the pedal wings along under your foot until the front engages, then the back just clicks in as you press down.

Took me quite a few rides to get over the Shimano method. Recently moved my cleats back 15 mm or so, and now find the action even better and more immediate.

muvro's picture

I ride with Shimano SH-MO75 shoes. Would these be stiff enough?

hugoburtmorris's picture

They just work.

Super light.

Super easy to get in and out of.

philberesford's picture

Eggbeaters everytime! I have them on both my bikes and so do all my mates. Look on eBay there's some great deals out there. Don't pay more than $80 delivered for C's ignore MXR they're cheap but not as strong.

I picked up 2 rebuild kits for $10 each on CRC recently

Phil

cambowambo's picture

They should work Tark.

The "platform" you stand on with eggbeaters is pretty small and if you spend a lot of time pushing hard (especially out of the saddle) then you can start to feel it burning through the shoes, unless the soles of those shoes are stiff enough to spread the load out and relieve the pressure.

If you do start to feel burn the solution is to sit down and shift to a lower gear and spin for a while Eye-wink

FWIW I also run Specialized BG inserts in my (not specialized) shoes and they definitely help to keep my feet happy.

Rob's picture

This is why you need carbon soled shoes Eye-wink

Just be sure to get some sole protectors or the eggbeaters will eat them. I'll post some pics of this when changing the protectors soon-ish.

philberesford's picture

What burn? I've never experienced or heard of this happening.

@Rob
I've read online some guy made his own protectors using an empty coke can. Have google for it. It's much cheaper than the Crank Bros

Rob's picture

Or was it a tuna tin? Eye-wink

See here: http://nobmob.com/node/8815

philberesford's picture

Yeah that's the article I read.

mabsydney's picture

Love them, best pedals I've ever used. After falling off several times on a muddy day at Red Hill because I couldn't get my feet out of the pedals, I bought the Time's on a mates recommendation. The engage and disengage easily and feel very positive and secure. They're tough too being a solid block of aluminium. Not the lightest pedal in the world, but strong and the just work.

LikeAGlove's picture

I was about to buy a pair of Shimano MD540's. They look tough and apparently work well with mud etc. Should I be considering anything else in that price range? I found them for $55 online. I mainly do trail riding and not sure what shoes I'm going to get just yet, looking around for options there too.

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