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How many spare inner tubes should I take for a 50km event? Yes, I'm a massive newbie!
Hello all,
feel sure it's been addressed in another thread, but can't find one. I'm doing my first 50km Enduro (Capital Punishment). I'm really new to the sport and would really appreciate some advice on how many spare inner tubes I should take along.
I know this is a how long is a piece of string question, but just trying to get a feel for what other people do?
The bike is 29er, in the 50-60km I've had her, I've only had the one puncture (front). However, this was on Stromlo (part of the Capital Punishment course) and that was after 2hours of riding there.
So I was thinking maybe three would be appropriate?
Cheers all.
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Is tubeless easy to setup on a 29er?
That would be my pick. Then you'd only need to carry one spare tube, and almost certainly wouldn't need to use it anyhow.
Hi and welcome.
Most people will probably recommend 2 spare tubes for most riding scenarios. I would also recommend that you know how to change a flat effectively as it can be easy to pinch the new tube if you don't know the technique and then no amount of spares are enough. As back up I would recommend some self adhesive patches in case you have a nightmare and run out of spare tubes (pretty unlikely). Also make sure you have some idea of whaty tyre pressure to run for your riding style, terrain and tyres.
Good luck in the race.
Sly
Thanks guys.
My tires/tyres (depending on your use of English) are tubeless ready. Bontager XDX something or other. The reason they've got tubes in now, is because that's how they came and I know no better.
What are the turn-offs going tubeless? Seems like if you've got the option of going tubeless, there's little reason to run tubes, right?
Seems watching my old man change a tire with a couple of spoons when I was about 8 (now 30) has paid off, as I changed my first flat with no issues. That said, the tyre is distorted. It has a distinct kink in the side wall of the tire. I've checked the tube is running smooth and tried refitting it a couple of times.
I also bought (from Wiggle.co.uk, great website, especially as GBP has is through the floor) a puncture repair kit as a last resort. Wouldn't have a clue how to use it on the track mind. Might practice on my old tube tonight.
1. 2 tubes is the way to go - you'd be surprised how often when you change a tube the spare craps itself while inflating.
2. You should seriously consider running tubeless as you will almost never have a flat - I average say 1 every 2 years in 5 day/week riding. Most wheels can be converted easily. It involves buying rim tape which is similar to a roll of electrical tape (but don't use electrical tape) and sealant. You simply run the tape around the inside of the rim to cover the spoke holes, put your tubeless tyres on then pour in some sealant which is a liquid latex or similar. If you do get a small hole the sealant hardens and blocks the hole so your tyre doesn't go flat and you ride on blissfully unaware you have a problem.
I use FRM tape & sealant but there are also others on the market that are just as good such as Stans. It would cost probably $70 all up to buy both and you would have plenty of sealant to re apply at least 3 more times.
Best to get your bike shop to do it for you when you buy it or I'm happy to help if you pm me to organise.
Will also depend on the rims more than the tires. Ideally both should be tubeless but you can convert non-tubeless rims using Stans Rim Strips and then sealant. This starts to get into a bit more advanced territory BUT if you already have rims and tires ready for tubeless go for it. Look up Stans Tubeless installation on YouTube to see how easy it is.
There are a few hints and tips you can get online too but it is pretty straight forward and well worth the investment. If they are suitable, what you will need is:
1. Sealant
2. Tubeless vavles
3. Good floor pump minimum, ideally compressed air system (bike shop)
4. Patience and beer
Trow in recommended sealant, mount the tire (if difficult use soapy water on the bead). Now the tricky bit - make sure the tire sits against the edge all the way round and that the valve head is not popping out one side. Pump furiously and if you hear air continue to leak, check the sides again and flex them around to get them seated. After a little trial and error it starts to inflate and you'll hear pops as the bead sits correctly.
Once inflated to about 60 PSI, spin them round and then spin on each side to get the sealant round the edge. Leave them for a few hours on one side, then the same on the other (spinning on side beforehand). All going well they'll be good and you can let some air out to desired pressure.
Other trick - when undoing tubeless valves, watch you don't remove the inner core when you undo the top cap. The core will shoot out under pressure. When you turn the cap check that part of the valve isn't moving too. These cores allow you to add more sealant every few months without removing the tire.
I run tubeless on a 29er and 26 inch too. Best move I made and now it the same as changing a tube to me but I do it a lot less
Ain't you guys helpful. Seriously, really appreciate the offers of help and trouble you've gone to.
My hubs and tires 'are' tubeless ready. Given I think I've killed my front tire from getting a flat (Don't know what happened, the tire went flat, put new tube on, and the tire wall looks buggered), the prospect of going tubeless and rarely getting a flat is very very appealing.
So there is a small set up cost ~ $70 to buy the sealant, tape, and of course, beer (Mortieths Summer Ale gets my vote at the moment...) and from there, it's plain sailing, right?
I assume if you get caught out on the track and you do get a flat on a tubeless setup, it's a big old messy affair to get an inner tube in to the wheel? I.e. what with all the sealant, tape, etc.?
It's easy to do on trail. Pull tubeless valve out then put tube in as per normal.
I personally don't use rim strips as the tape does the job fine andthe strip makes the seal so tight it is a nightmare removing & replacing tyres.
Nah... I'd go one. Put some decent air in your tyres and away you go. If its your first 50km race, and unless you intend to be at the front of the pack, rolling resistance is probably more important than flat out cornering grip.
But take a puncture repair kit just in case
A normal test after I've changed a tube. I put the wheel back into the bike, and before clamping the wheel in, give it a spin, if the tire looks like it has a buckle/wobble, the tire ain't seated right.
If you look around the edge of the rim where the tire meets the rim you might have a little bit of tire that is still not "seated" correctly. What I do is increase the pressure a bit more than normal and then (sitting on the floor with wheel in front of you - not in bike) grab the tire both sides of the seating issue and 'roll' it with your hands back and forth. Imagine trying to roll the tire sideways off the rim. It should pop into place. I've never had to do it but I've heard a bit of soapy water can also help if they are hard to seat.
the side wall as I have done that with 2 tyres as Hawkeye has seen it first hand on my bike before , too aggresive putting it on or hit the side wall hard against a rock somewhere
Need to watch the sidewalls. If you've got damage I'd put a new tyre on. It's not fun when they go bang as it's usually on the fast gnarly bits that it happens.
For the race or long back-of-nowhere rides I'd put a few 5 dollar notes in your saddle bag - if you split a sidewall on a rock, they can be used to help keep the tube inside so you can get home. Full tubeless tyres might be several hundred grams each heavier than tubed tyres converted to ghetto tubeless, but for those long point-to-point enduros I reckon the thicker stonger sidewalls are a good thing.
I haven't done a sidewall yet, but not for lack of trying. Smiley, you have the worst luck!
I run tubeless and carry two tubes for bigger rides. The reason I carry two is if I do sidewall damage, one tube can be used to wrap around the tyre and the other for inside. I did this repair before (link below) but as I wasn't running tubeless at the time I had the old tube to use as the wrap. With my new bike I have actually gone old school and have used an old tube around the chain stay and I could use this as the wrap a damaged sidewall in an emergency. For the record I have run tubeless with stans since the blow out in March 2008 and have only had one puncture which the stans sealed allowing me to top the air up and ride on.
http://nobmob.com/node/4726
A decent pump is equally important. The number of times i've seen folks flat, including myself - 4 on one oaks ride, including a double flat - because they haven't re-inflated their tyres well enough *cry*
I've been running tubeless for nearly 3 years and never had a puncture ( Mavic UST rims and various real UST tyres with a little stans thrown in for insurance).
In the enduro races, I carry a spare tube, a 5 dollar note and a pump ..... my niggling concern is that after 3 years of inactivity, the tube is probably perished and the pump has probably seized ! No doubt I'll find out the hard way one day...
CB
Yeah, I hear what you're saying Re decent Pump... especially with 29s...
Fortunately the sales guy at the shop steered me towards the bigger cylinder, dual action (pumps whilst plunging in and out) Bontager (Sp) pump.
Taking the bike into the shop to look at the tire. I'll not be happy if the tire is screwed after a slow speed flat...
If you're putting the spare tubes in a saddle bag or backpack then wrap them in something to protect them. Leave them in the box, wrap in bubble-wrap, or wrap in a bit of cloth.
They can easily wear through on the edges if left unprotected, especially if they've been unused/forgotten about for a few months.
If you're a bit short on room for a second spare then you could tape one (or two) spare tubes to your seatpost.
thanks for that.
If I don't get round to going tubeless before the enduro thingy, I'll probably buy a bigger underseat bag, carry two tubes in there, and one in the rucksack... just in case.
If nothing else, I might be able to sell it for a big profit if people come unstuck
. Only joking, I'd not look to profiter like that. I've been pleasantly surprised by the entire community who offer to help when you stop or get a flat.
now are sweet and haven't damaged them yet , this weekend racing might be a different story tho Hawkeye
go tubeless, its easy to do yourself just takes a little bit of time and patience. I have just converted my bike to tubeless, by doing it yourself it will save you a heap of $
I keep my spares sealed in a zip lock bag with some talcum powder in it. It makes putting on and seating the new tube a hell of a lot easier and quicker. Particularly helpful in a race situation too.
oh, and I always carry 2 tubes and some CO2 canisters. You'll need the bigger canisters for your 29r
A lock bag with a talcum powered inner tube. What would airport security make of it I wonder...
It's a good idea. I also wondered about carrying a tiny amount of washing up liquid (vessel to be decided) to help find a puncture if the worse comes to it and you have to apply a puncture patch... (Oh forgot to mention... the purpose of the washing liquid is smoother the tube and when the airleaks, you can see a bubble where the puncher is..).
Plus if I got lost and had to work my way home, I could be a washer-uper...
I'm SOOOO looking forward to Capital Punishment...I found myself unable to control my "whooo hoooing" when I was on Mt Stromlo last weekend...
Oh and in case you thought philberesford was mad... Bike Addiction in Manly swears by the 'talc on the tube' (I think they were talking about inner-tubes...., at least I hope they were!). Apparently it reduces pinch flats by reducing the friction between tire and tube and allowing the tube to get out of the way of the tire. Either that, or they're winding up the new kid!
On a separate note, I went to buy a pair of full priced Bontrager Jones ACX tires and when the helpful young man produced them from the store room, not only did they not have that new tire nobbly hairy thing they get when they come out of the mould, and not only did they not have the proper packaging, and not only did they look par worn, they also had mud on the contact are. Mud.
When questioned I was told "Oh, they might be off one of the show bikes, but they're brand new." Needless to say I flipped them the bird...