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Tip required


Benny-B's picture

By Benny-B - Posted on 24 June 2010

My Raceface crank seems to be stuck on my bike. Does anyone have any tips how I may be able to undo the allan key bolt that holds it on? I did work out the part where you get the right size allan key for any would be smarty pants.

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Flynny's picture

Depending on the model you need a crank puller.

Some race face 2 piece cranks have a self extracting bolt (If the lock ring is missing lossen the bolt a bit and try tapping the whole spindle back through) but most will require a puller that srews into the crank and then pushes it off the axle

hawkeye's picture

... exists in my toolbox. Eye-wink

Where are you based? I have regular and GigaPipe crank pullers - should be able to work something out.

VTSS350's picture

As already said it really depends on the crank. Alot of race face cranks are self extracting.

The have a allen key cap over the top of an allen key bolt. You undo the bolt against the cap and the crank arm comes off.

If the cap is missing you might need to get a new one or a crank puller.

Scottboy's picture

I did mine like that too , you need a 8 mm I think ,(too undo the inside allen key only )it will extract the crank off the drive side

Pants's picture

8mm allen key on an air gun = undone in one second (like the ones they use to take of car wheel nuts)

muvro's picture

LOL @ Pants

Like this???

Photobucket

My brand new Snap-On 18v rattle gun = 600+ft/lbs LOL

Pants's picture

Yep one of those bad boys (my one is runs off the air compressor)

Benny-B's picture

Thanks everyone for the tips. Hawkeye i am over at Ryde, but happy to come to you if it get to that point. I do however work at a VW dealership and we have lots of rattle guns, so i might try that first. I may show a shop first to see if i really need to be using a different tool, cause the power of the rattle gun will break it if it comes of a different way.

This is such a great website to get and give help advice and of course ride socially. Really glad I found it a couple of years ago

muvro's picture

I wouldn't be using a rattle gun... I was joking personally.

If an allen key didn't work, then use an allen key socket on a long ratchet. If that didn't work, use a rattle gun on low power. If it gets to that though, there might be something seriously wrong, and might be best to have someone in the know check it out for you.

Is the bolt steel or aluminium? If it's steel, you'll be sweet with a rattle gun, but if it's alloy, be very careful. The impact and torque a rattle gun can produce will rip the head off before you've even realised what's happened.

Funkychicken's picture

raceface crank bolts are designed to be tightened to a hard stop, but that doesnt mean you shouldn't be careful not to over-torque. 10mm allen key removes the top cap, 8mm to remove the self-extracting bolt, thread direction should be displayed on the self-extracting bolt itself.

hawkeye's picture

... you are aware that one side has a reverse thread?

From memory it's the non-drive side. A check on Sheldon Brown will confirm which side it is.

Flynny's picture

Not on the crank bolt Hawkeye.

Left Pedal and right BB, yes. Crank bolt no.

hawkeye's picture

Hrrrmm... you sure? Seem to recall one of them was reversed on my old Truvativ Gigapipe BB. {shrugs} I'll take your word for it. Smiling

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