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Waterproof treatments to re waterproof a rain jacket?
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
So I stayed off the sodden trails on the weekend and instead headed out on the road. I've got a 6 year old "waterproof" jacket.
Netti with Entrant that was meant to be like goretex. Anyway riding on the weekend my jacket just became wet and slowly seaped through. My partners jacket is the same model but only two years old and the water was beading straight off hers.
This is the jacket http://www.bicyclehq.com.au/clothing/jackets-and...
Anyone had any luck with waterproofing treatments? Any recommendations?
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Hi Mate,
I've had good results with a product from Storm. It's their "Wash in waterproofer", and I've seen it in both "air cure" (hang it on the line) or "heat cure" (chuck it in the dryer). I've only used it 3 or 4 times over the years, but has always got whatever garment I was using it on back to a good level of water proofing. I think I got mine from Mtn Equipment in the city last time - can't remember exactly, but was definitely somewhere on Kent St there.
Good luck!
Got this from the Ground Effect website. Great bike clothes.
HydroFoil & Microfibre shells
• Avoid cold-water detergents and those with bleach or fabric softner. The cold-water varieties have little enzymes that are super-charged to brave the cold but can damage the HydroFoil fabric. Bleach may attack the HydroFoil laminate. Also avoid products containing fabric softeners, ie. wool wash. These destroy the water repellent finish.
• Select a mild plant-based soap - like 'Ecover' or a specific sport wash like Grangers Extreme Cleaner, Nikwax Tech Wash or our new favourite Atsko 'Sport Wash' (from the makers of 'Sno Seal'). Around NZ$30 from most outdoor shops. Check out www.grangers.co.uk ; www.nikwax.com ; or www.atsko.com for more info. Any stubborn stains should be dabbed not rubbed clean. For grease spots you can use a degreaser like Swarfega. It's aggressive stuff though so take care - it might be best left alone as added character
• Try not to wash too often. General wear along with washing progressively removes the water repellent treatment from the outside the fabric. This treatment helps rain to bead and run off - and enhances the overall performance of the fabric. You can help restore it after a wash by chucking your jacket in the dryer using a warm (not hot) cycle. This 'recharges' the water repellent treatment so it lasts a bit longer. When this trick no longer does its magic you can beef up the original treatment to some extent with a product like Grangers Extreme Synthetics or Nikwax TX Direct (around NZ$30-40 from most outdoor shops). A bottle is good for two or three rounds with your jacket. The effectiveness of this process depends on the age and condition of your jacket. Expect ok results if the fabric is only 'wetting out' in patches (the 'mid-life' crisis). If the entire jacket is 'wetting-out' rapidly in light rain then it already has one-foot-in-the-grave and beading is unlikely to improve much from the treatment. The 40 bucks maybe better spent put towards a new jacket. Note that while the fabric's wetting-out impairs performance, particularly breathability, the HydroFoil laminate should still be waterproof.
I've personally used 'Grangers' on my aged Gore-tex stuff. Worked a treat. I've found that the spray on works best. The washing machine treatment makes a 'barrier' on both sides of the fabric. (Not so good for letting out steam)
Agree with Fishlegs above, the dryer trick does work. If anyone is looking at buying an expensive jacket, look up E-Vent instead of Gore-tex.
I spent 7 years working for Gore (makers of Gore-Tex), several as a fabrics engineer, so I'm probably qualified to comment on this one
Your leakage will be caused by one of two things; the waterproof membrane actually leaking or the DWR (Durable Water Repellant) on the surface of the fabric breaking down.
If it's the DWR it can be restored pretty well although not quite as good as when it left the factory.
- First port of call is a gentle wash and the tumble drier which will give it a bit of a pep (what's actually happening at the microscopic level is that the DWR is like a forest of tiny tree trunks that form a barrier so the water droplets can't touch the fabric but the air and water vapour can pass through. As it gets old and dirty the trees lie down, reducing effectiveness. The heat from the drier stands them back up again). This is fine for Entrant which has reasonable durability to flexing, some other fabrics (particualrly coated rather than laminated fabrics) may develop leaks if they're a bit fragile
- If it's a few years old renewing the DWR is a good idea anyway, use one of the products listed above or Revivex or Nicwax. Don't be afraid of using the wash in ones, they're actually better because they apply DWR to the inside of the fabric as well. Contrary to the comment above that actually increases breathability by preventing your sweat from saturating the inside of the fabric and creating a barrier to moisture vapour. Once you've done that pop it in the dier to set the DWR and anytime you need to give it a lift
If it's the membrane that's developed a leak then you're kind of stuffed. If you've been wearing it on a bike a lot it's possible because of the wind flapping in the cold (oddly enough referred to as "cold flex" in the trade) which is very tough on fabrics. From memory Entrant is reasonable in this regard but not at the level of Gore-Tex so it's more likely it's just the DWR that needs some love.
I hope that helps, it's about time I put that pent up knowledge to use
Thanks everybody there is some gold there.
What about if I don't have a drier? I live in WA why would I need one? Can I do it another way?
I have to say when I posted I didn't expect an ex fabrics engineer from Gore Tex to reply!
If you don't have a dryer you can do it with a warm iron. Take the usual precautions of testing it on the face fabric in a hidden area (ie inside the bottom hem), you may need to put a tea-towel over it if the face fabric is particualrly sensitive but it should be fine
Thanks DiscoDan. That info (and the tree analogy) is gold. I was informed from a reputable outdoor store about my above post on 'wash in' info. I'll definitely try it next time.
One more question DiscoDan - Do you know anything about the 'Elixir' guitar strings made by Gore? They are the best acoustic strings by far, & any interesting points about them would be great! (eg, making them last even longer etc)
I don't really know much about the Elixer cables, they were a bit of a novelty that has developed a cult following but it wasn't something I got into technically. One of the great things about Gore is that you're encouraged to develop new and wacky ideas which spawns some great developments (and some dogs). Other examples are the Gore RideOn shifter cables or Glide dental floss, all made from the same stuff in the fabric.