You are hereForums / By Discipline / Mountain (off road) / MTB Gear / Issues with 2012 SID XX 120 mm
Issues with 2012 SID XX 120 mm
I recently purchased and fitted 2012 Rockshox SID XX forks. They are 120 mm travel and fit to a scott spark.
They just don't seem right. Even with a pressure at the low end of the expected range they are pretty harsh. Very little small bump compliance but they do seem to open up on the harder hits. I rode at Mt Annan yesterday and they often felt fully rigid. In fact even with all air removed from the +ve and -ve chambers they are very reluctant to move through their full range of travel. The hydraulic lock out doesn't seem to work - but I sometimes think the fork is acting like it is locked out all the time.
I have bled the lock out system as described on the Sram website. I have done this twice with a slightly different procedure, but neither procedure seems to help.
Anyone with any ideas?
- Login to post comments
- Bookmark & share
Put 100 psi in both chambers, see what that does. I weigh 92kg kitted, the recommended 130 was way too much.
How much sag does it have now?
Ripped from another forum:
- Deflate the negative air chamber ( be aware that you WILL lose oil if the valve is pointing straight down).
- Deflate the positive air chamber
- Ensure the fork is not locked out
- Add air to the +ve chamber until you get the SAG you require. Make a note of the pressure. (Need 15-30% so 18-36mm for 120mm travel)
- Inflate the -ve chamber to the same pressure.
- If you want a firmer start to the suspension feel, remove up to 15psi from the -ve chamber
- If you want a more supple start, ADD upto 15psi to the -ve chamber
- Adding more -ve pressure can suck the fork down into its travel
you might have gotten the dud, just the one they spent that partial of a second less time manufacturing.
just send em an email, even if its out of warranty they'll try to help you
That so sounds like my SID rct
It has gone rigid twice now during 100km races - then mysteriously returns to normal once it gets to a bike shop.
Seems from the riding experience travel goes to zero then back to normal, then to zero travel again - happened about 30km or 40km in - so wondered if it was a temp issue?
You've got me thinking now as I briefly owned some Sid teams last year & remember that despite fettling they never seemed as plush as I thought that they should be. Also they would occasionally lock when the poplock was used then released but this would only happen on longer rides.
Perhaps the damper unit sticks when warm.
BTW, are you setting the pressure starting with zero in both then setting the positive then negative? Have you also got some freeplay on the poplock lockout cable when released?
If the fork doesn't give it's full travel when the positive side air is released the fork could have too much oil in the air chamber.
I now run Reba 120s 15mm (RLTs?) on my HT & they are running sweetly for XC use with the set up 10psi higher in the positive side they seem to give a more progressive/less linear spring rate giving good small bump absorption but still taking bigger hits without blowing through.
Good luck
T
The thing that really makes it looks like something isnt right is that when all pressure is vented from both the +va and -ve chambers the forks still don't move smoothly through their travel, and I have to lean on it with some weight to move them even with 0 pressure.
My suspicion is that the dampers are over-filled with fluid. Since they are brand new forks I don't want to risk any warranty so I will be returning them for assessment. A real PIA since I am riding in the Willo this weekend so will have to fit the old shocks and wheels onto the bike to ride it.
Thanks everyone for the advice - it has helped me work out there isn't a quick fix for the problem.
No need to return it just to check if over-filled, just remove air from both chambers, unscrew the right side top cap (damper side) and slowly cycle the fork (have a rag or paper towel handy). If it is over filled, oil will over flow.
This procedure should not avoid warranty (you won't even take the damper out) and no ill effects will come out of it as the damper is isolated from the bath oil.
Just a piece of advice, even on a brand new fork it is good practice to service it and check fluid levels as more often than not, forks have too little bath oil, what can kill the stanchions pretty quickly.
Cheers
The lockout button has leaked. You probably have lost the fluid and its permantly in lockout mode. My reba XX were like that. The o-ring in the pushlock aren't great. I had to order a new pushlock, around $50. I think they sell repair kits for these too (new o-ring etc).
Hi Ya,
Thanks for posting this.... I am having the same issue. Did you find out a solution?
Cheers
Adam
PS: I find that my fork becomes locked in wet weather...