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Brake upgrade???
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Looking to upgrade brakes on my enduro, not happy with the avids, the levers have started playing up and out of warranty. Price is not really an issue what's every one running? Not looking for a cross country set I like going down hill more than up but weight is a factor. Like the look of hope tech v2's.
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I went from Avid Juicy Ultimates with Goodrich Braided Hoses to the new Shimano SLX's (would have got XT's but they were out of stock & I was in need of stoppers)
I never disliked the Juicys, the reservoir clamp just broke off one day for no reason.
But not that ive changed I wont be going back. The difference is night & day. The power & modulation of the SLX's is unbelievable compared to Avids 'top end' brake set. Unbeatable for the price IMO. Highly recommend them!
Ah sweet I'd guess that the xt's would be even better again. I don't hate the avids either and I'd like to stay with them cause I've got SRAM shifter and rockshox reverb remote post on one clamp but I am disappointed that they have busted after only 2 years. Cheers for the info
Hi
I was never a fan of Avid's after their crap offerings about 8 years ago but they do seem far better now.
At the moment I'm running Hope X2s on 2 bikes and 2012 XT Icetech on another, all 180/160.
The XT's were super powerful for a while but lacked modulation but they have recently become weaker which has also made them far less grabby. (I think that they objected to something I used to clean the bike with)
The Hope X2s took a few rides to bed in properly but have since been great. They feel better than the Shimanos both in feel & quality and their performance has remained consistent whereas the Shimanos vary ride to ride and occasionally shudder.
Value for money the Shimanos can't be beaten but as a brake there are better out there.
T
Sounds like a pad contamination problem Tony. Change the pads and you should be back to normal.
I've got Magura's on my bike and I'm really happy with them. Compared to my old Avids and a mates XT's, they seem more powerful and a lot easier to regulate how much 'grab' your getting on the disk. I don't think they're that expensive either. I have the MT 4 but if you're doing more downhill it may be worth checking out the MT6 or 8.
Double post
Hated the Avid Juicy 5s.
Using Shimano XT now, and they are awesome!
If price isn't an issue, go XTR, but the price difference is pretty huge, and TBO I couldn't tell the difference.
ohhh but the bling.......^^^^^^
Ive got the new XT's I quite like them. But then I had the Shimano 486's.....or something like that
+2 for the Hope X2. Running on both my regular rides. For 2 years they have been unremarkably good and reliable
Value for $ from Evans' Cycles was out of this world.
I have a 2012 Enduro and had issues with my Avid 7's also. I Put 2012 XTs on the standard Avid HS1 rotors and have been super impressed with their performance. I thought about fixing the Elixer 7s because they fit so well with everything else on the bars, but the thought of having to buy an $80 bleed kit, that apparently would need be used regularly, convinced me to put the XTs on. They can be bled with no special tools, and stay bled for good. I ride downhill regularly on the Enduro, am heavy (110kgs) and the only thing I am contemplating changing is swapping the HS1 rotors with Ice Techs.
Lee
I use 2012 XTs and swear by them. Plenty of modualtion and stopping power in all conditions.
exactly why I got myself a set of these for N+1, just waiting for the right adaptors to fit them.
http://www.diymtb.com.au/userfiles/image/Hygia/H...
edit: damn I wish I knew how to hotlink pics. Can someone help me please?
I usually use photobucket but it doesn't seem to work on here...
Often hear about people liking the power of their brakes but not the modulation, as their brakes are too 'grabby' and seem to be on or off and lock up the wheel easily. I've used these modifications for years on both racing motorcycles and now MTB 'grabby' disc brakes. Assuming you have the correct tyre for the conditions, not a fast roller on low grip terrain, the below could help.
These should only be used on the REAR brake - repeat ONLY the REAR brake. The front brake takes more weight and none that I've ridden lock up easily with the right tyre for the conditions. However WA riders can lock up any wheel any time they want on pea gravel
Take out the pads and cut (file or saw) a groove in the pads diagonally (longitudinally also works), so that the surface area of both pads is reduced by no more than a third - 20% seems to work with most I've tried. It reduces the area in contact with the disc. Result is you need a little more pressure to lock the wheel. I've had no problems with this on any bike including racing m/cycles. Pad wear isn't reduced greatly, the brakes are no longer 'on or off', ie. more modulation. Another mod is to chamfer the leading edge of the pads so they don't 'bite' when applied. The chamfer isn't recommended if you ride in mud a lot.
Both allow a little more modulation in my experience.
FWIW
HTH
Ive been racing with XTR brakes with Nuke Proof enduro pads this year on the marathons. True one finger braking with heaps of feel. When your racing marathons solo you want brakes that are consistent and won't create hand fatigue. These fitted the bill perfectly although kind of pricy swapping out new XTR pads straight away. The Nuke proof pads are cheaper though.