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Rush Bling & Lefty Removal
Over the last couple days have been upgrading a few parts on the Rush as it's hand-me-downs are going to a new build that's in the making.
The Rush got some Juicy Ultimate brakes (on special - couldn't resist), an XT crankset, Selle Italia SLR XC saddle and some Eggbeater SL pedals. As I say, the parts that came off are going on another build so easy to justify!
Anyhow - swapping of the rear brake was a bit tricky - mainly because the hose is routed between the Lefty and headset, a space through which one cannot pass lever or caliper of either old or new brake. Choices seemed to be remove hose & re-bleed both brakes or remove Lefty to pass hose. After a bit of research I chose the latter option.
Why this is interesting is that the Cannondale service manual would have you beleive this is a tricky job, and requires a special tool (service tool KT020 or something). This is basically because after one unscrews the cover on bottom of the steerer tube it needs to be tapped out in an upwards direction. Can't find a picture of the KT020 but I assume it's some kind of tapered rubber thing.
Undaunted by this I decided to use a peice of wood held against the side of the steerer and gently tap it out, and sure enough, did the trick just fine. One slight issue was that the steerer frees from the bottom cup but then grabs at the top one on the way out - don't worry - it just needs more tapping.
As you can see the Lefty is then free to be held by one of the optional clamps on your favorite work stand (a Thule rack in this case).
Shame I didn't discover it was this easy last month as the headset bearings were just changed by the LBS. Oh well - next time.
Anyhow job done - there's something very satisfying about removing parts from a bike, cleaning them up and replacing.
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On the right/correct side of the handlebar?
Guess I will be following your instructions to do my brake soon...
Service part KT020 is a rort perpetrated by Cannondale to have their riders spend money on non-essential equipment when they don't need to.
It would probably have been much easier to take the hose off the lever, not requiring a bleed. Though I'm sure you've learnt lots of useful stuff by doing it this way...
As long as you don't depress the lever or the pads (use a spacer...) while things are disconnecetd then you won't lose a noticeable amount of oil and any tiny amount of air that gets in will get worked up with a few lever pulls once it's rejoined. The aperture size of the tube and lever connection are so small that it's very difficult to get air in in place of oil.
I've not actually done this with Avids but have with Shimano and Hope with no problems.
If you're being very pedantic then you might've needed a new olive but that's usually not really needed.
Happy wrenching