You are hereForums / By Discipline / Mountain (off road) / MTB Gear / 1x9/1x10 setup
1x9/1x10 setup
Thinking of changing to a 1x9 or 10 setup as i spend most of my riding time in the middle ring (32) and would like to run a chain guide. Just would like some opinions on a good gear spread cassette and pricing for the chain guide, cassette and chain.
Cheers Will
- Login to post comments
- Bookmark & share
Tags
Hi Will,
I've been running 1x9 for a year now and am loving it. I run a 36t at the front with a 11-32 XT cluster at the back which is pretty good. I recently went to a 11-34 for a 100km event in case I needed lower gearing for the tail end of the race when my legs were shot. It seems a lot of 1x9 riders have much smaller fronts (around 30t) but I think you'd lose too much top end speed, I can push about 40 kmph on my gearing without spinning myself into oblivion.
The loss of lower gears, in my opinion, is over-rated. I've never had a hill I cant get up and I'm not some elite freak, just a average fit rider. I noticed when I put the 34t cluster on I used the lower gearing even though I didn't need to and I think that applies for a lot of people. If you only have higher gearing you just peddle a bit harder. The upside is you get up hills faster and get fitter
Maybe a 34t front with a 11-34 cluster would be a compromise choice.
On chain guides, I started with a MRP top guide only. Nice and light but I was losing the chain a bit on rough decents when you're not peddling. I recently went to a E-13 guide with a coaster gear on the bottom as well which is a bit heavier and makes an annoying noise but that chain aint going anywhere. The Widgit is another good alternative but a little more expensive
hope that helps
great help although as im small will probs need the extra climbing gears. Just wondering-how much did the conversion cost all up?
Thanks again,
Will
As you're taking things off rather than adding them it's pretty cheap. I paid about $70 for this chain guide http://www.e13components.com/product_ls1.html and that's all you need to get going. Alteratively you can get a Widgit for $140 that does both functions very elegantly
http://widgit.com.au/buy.html . The main downside there is you can't change the front ring size without buying a whole new setup but it is a stainless ring so will last forever. If you want to change your cluster to a 11-24 you can get a XT cluster new for $75 with a bit of canny shopping on ebay, I believe there's also a 11-36 available in the lower ranges of Shimano products but I wanted to stay with the lighter stuff.
Highly recommended, I put a MRP 1X chain guide and a new front ring on my bike and it is great. I kept the 11-34t 9 speed cassette that was already on the bike and took a few links out of the chain.
If your current chain and cassette are not too worn you can keep them. The mrp guides are about $75 on wiggle http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?M.... You can find the correct chain rings (with no shifting ramps and pins) under $40.
I think a 32t front ring is the smallest for this system, look at the widgets if you need smaller.
1 gear's enough
I have also been strongly considering this... Would it help to replace the rear derailleur with a short instead of a long cage? (please note that I really don't know what I'm talking about in regards to long & short derailleurs, I just know that the chain doesn't have to be as long, and there might be a little more chain slap than necessary...)
Also, any good suggestions as to where to find a good 36 front cog?
yes it would
I've got a Super-Short Saint on my 1x9 Downhill Bike with a 36 up front. (which is in essence the gearing here)
I bought my 36T ring and the rest of this from CRC. Its a race face ring I think.
The chain guide is DH oriented so might be heavier but for $60 for a guide and chainring it's good value
http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?2...
I use a Wigit with a 11-34 (1x9). Check this diagram out. I'd suggest trying a 30 or 32 Widgit.
From http://www.widgit.com.au/technical.html
I only tend to run out of gears on downhill road, or long very fast fire trail.
Ultimate combo: 1x9 with an adjustable seatpost. I love it!!
if you are not doing DH stuff, you might be happier with a cheaper and lighter option...
I put a N-gear jump stop and a bash ring on my townie/kiddie trailer/whatever bike, and a 34T Surly ring (straight chainring, no ramps or angled teeth), and it works a treat with my existing 11-32 cassette and long cage derailleur... actually, come to think of it, I haven't put my bash ring on yet, I still have the big ring on there for that purpose
I have found the 34x11-32 setup to be adequate gearing for everything so far, and that includes towing a double kiddie trailer with approx 20kg of child up and down fernleigh track. If I had a geared hardtail mtb, I would run this setup (and may end up putting bouncy forks on this bike as a spare/loaner)
http://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/
look for one on ebay.
cheers,
Grant.
thanks all for the advice. Will be looking round for some good deals to get all the stuff for the conversion. Thanks again.
i have a paul's chain keeper sitting in the spares bin. Havn't used it yet. I bought it because it looked like a simple way to keep the chain on. http://www.paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html
I'm sure that I am missing something here... Why do I need a chain guide at all? I mean, my old BMX never had one, & used to thrash that thing. (See profile pic) Is it because of the rear derailleur & the slightly different angles that the chain runs on the cogs?
You BMX had rear drop outs and no rear mech. It was a single speed with rear drop outs. The rear mech, makes slack = droped chains. Take your front mech off and see, but be careful. When the chain drops it can be dangerous.
I had zero mechanical knowledge as a teenager & paid no attention to the bike itself. That does make sense now that you've explained it. Thanks!