What do you think is a reasonable to distance to get from a suspension fork? How many K's do you have to do before you think you've done enough to justify buying a new one? Only interested in XC forks, 100 to 120 mm. I'm not particularly interested in how long your forks lasted or how the ones you bought back in 1989 are still going strong. Down-hillers can skip this thread.

Short story.

Bought new cassette, wanted 11-32T but didn't change option from 11-28T, D'oh.

Do I;

Harden up and deal with 28?
Return it for 11-32T?

Pros as I see it;

Harden upingness is increased.

Cons as I see it;

Found spread between 11-32T was too close anyway and nearly always flick 2 sometimes 3 cogs at a time up or down. 11-28T is going to be even closer in ratios. (Haven't checked what cogs/teeth are different)

Any recommendations for a good indoor turbo trainer?

I managed to get fitter the other year by spinning etc but my own trainer is lousy, it's noisy & doesn't feel anything like real riding.
I am after a trainer that will accommodate 26" to 700c wheels, is quiet & gives a realistic load rather than a simple brake type resistance that stops the wheel dead as soon as the pedalling effort is reduced.

I'd rather be in the hills but distance & time is prohibitive.

Any advice welcome, cheers.

Hi guys,

I currently ride a carbon fibre LOOK 996 and am having some mechanical/ frame issues. After repairing a knock that had developed in one of the rear pivot points, it has now developed a severe creaking sound from what appears to be near the bottom bracket. Dad's a mechanical engineer by trade and we've had the entire back of the bike off with all bearings been replaced and even with the fitting of a higher spec bottom bracket. It primarily becomes vocal whilst pedalling, and very slightly when the rear suspension is under load.